All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > The Old Settler
Mars Western [Suggest Change]
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||R. Beech, D. Brayshaw, F. Webb, September 1999|
|Page Views:||194 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Dru B. on Mar 17, 2009|
Access Issue: Gates may be closed. Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description [Suggest Change]
Begin about 100m right of the toe of the west buttress, below the SW face of the south peak, and climb steep, black-streaked corners (crux, 5.8) to reach the southern corner of a major ledge on the buttress crest. [This ledge can also be reached from the west buttress route, bypassing the 5.8 start in favor of the mid-5th climbing on the west buttress). From the ledge, trend up and right onto the south peak's southwest face, following a diagonalling route up solid slabs and cracks. Cross a prominent basalt dyke, then climb a steep pitch on enormous holds (5.7). Climb a right-trending ramp pitch, then a steep crack pitch straight up (5.6) which leads to broken 3rd class terrain below the summit.
Location [Suggest Change]
The route is located on the SW face of the south summit. Approach and descent are as for the west buttress of that peak.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Wired nuts and cams to 3"