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Routes in The Old Settler

Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow
Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: R. Beech, D. Brayshaw, F. Webb, September 1999
Page Views: 194 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Mar 17, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Gates may be closed. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Begin about 100m right of the toe of the west buttress, below the SW face of the south peak, and climb steep, black-streaked corners (crux, 5.8) to reach the southern corner of a major ledge on the buttress crest. [This ledge can also be reached from the west buttress route, bypassing the 5.8 start in favor of the mid-5th climbing on the west buttress). From the ledge, trend up and right onto the south peak's southwest face, following a diagonalling route up solid slabs and cracks. Cross a prominent basalt dyke, then climb a steep pitch on enormous holds (5.7). Climb a right-trending ramp pitch, then a steep crack pitch straight up (5.6) which leads to broken 3rd class terrain below the summit.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route is located on the SW face of the south summit. Approach and descent are as for the west buttress of that peak.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Wired nuts and cams to 3"

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