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Routes in The Old Settler

Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, Grade II
FA: possibly A. Dalgleish, E. Brooks, 1931
Page Views: 233 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This scrambling and descent route climbs the west face of the peak via a north-trending ramp of light rock. From Daiphy Lake, hike up talus and scree below the west face, trending left and up to gain the base of the west face near where the ramp ends at talus. Scramble up solid rock to gain the ramp itself, which involves much sandy scrambling on gritty slabs and the occasional section of 3rd class rock. The ramp ends at the col between the central and north summits. The north (highest) summit is 3rd class from the col while the central summit is stiff 4th class.

Location

Descend same route - rappels unnecessary.

Protection

Bring ice axe in early season (until late July).

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