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Routes in The Old Settler

Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: D. Brayshaw, S. Sheffield, M. Spagnut, Sept. 1998
Page Views: 326 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Begin across the west couloir from the start of the west buttress of the south peak and climb steep cracks in solid, polished orange rock to a ledge (same as start of Black September). Move left and climb a 5.9 crack breaking through a black-streaked overhang. Climb a long 5.7 pitch to an orange ledge surrounded by darker rock. Move the belay 60m left along this ledge (3rd class). Climb an excellent 60m 5.6 pitch on a featured slab to a belay below steeper rock. Climb up the centre of a steep face below an arching roof feature (loose rock cleaned on FA) and break through it moving left to the arete (5.10-). Climb a long 5.9 pitch up the arete on steep featured rock, small nuts are very useful. Climb a 5.7 pitch above, then some scrambling, followed by a 5.6 pitch up a wide crack that leads to the summit.

Location

This route climbs the southwest face of the central summit. The central summit has three southwest-facing ribs: Contact Zone climbs the righthand one, Black September the central one, and Duck a L'Orange the lefthand one.

Descend the standard scrambling ramp route down the west face from the north-central col.

Protection

Full rack, emphasis on hand-size cams and wired nuts. Small (RP size) wired nuts are useful on some pitches. A #4 camalot or similar sized piece is also nice for some pitches. Double ropes are also useful due to the wandering nature of some pitches.

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