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Routes in The Old Settler
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Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | D. Brayshaw, S. Sheffield, M. Spagnut, Sept. 1998 |
| Page Views: | 1,038 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Mar 17, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gates may be closed.
Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description
Begin across the west couloir from the start of the west buttress of the south peak and climb steep cracks in solid, polished orange rock to a ledge (same as start of Black September). Move left and climb a 5.9 crack breaking through a black-streaked overhang. Climb a long 5.7 pitch to an orange ledge surrounded by darker rock. Move the belay 60m left along this ledge (3rd class). Climb an excellent 60m 5.6 pitch on a featured slab to a belay below steeper rock. Climb up the centre of a steep face below an arching roof feature (loose rock cleaned on FA) and break through it moving left to the arete (5.10-). Climb a long 5.9 pitch up the arete on steep featured rock, small nuts are very useful. Climb a 5.7 pitch above, then some scrambling, followed by a 5.6 pitch up a wide crack that leads to the summit.
Location
This route climbs the southwest face of the central summit. The central summit has three southwest-facing ribs: Contact Zone climbs the righthand one, Black September the central one, and Duck a L'Orange the lefthand one.
Descend the standard scrambling ramp route down the west face from the north-central col.
Descend the standard scrambling ramp route down the west face from the north-central col.
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