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Routes in The Old Settler

Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: BC Mountaineering Club party - 1980
Page Views: 263 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This route climbs the southwest rib on the east-central summit, following a prominent geologic contact between orange and black rock. The first half of the route is mid-5th class with many variations possible. The last 4 pitches are sustained in the 5.8/9 range and follow the crest of the narrowing rib through a series of steep to slightly overhanging walls with excellent holds, rock quality and protection.

Location

Begin immediately across the gully from the base of the West Buttress of the South Peak and about 30m right of the starts of Duck a L'orange and Black September.

From the summit, scramble west to the west-central summit and downclimb or rappel into the north-central col. Descend the 3rd class scrambling route ramp on the west face to talus below the face.

Protection

Full rack to 3".

Photos

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