Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: BC Mountaineering Club party - 1980
Page Views: 884 total · 5/month
Shared By: Drew Brayshaw on Mar 17, 2009
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Description Suggest change

This route climbs the southwest rib on the east-central summit, following a prominent geologic contact between orange and black rock. The first half of the route is mid-5th class with many variations possible. The last 4 pitches are sustained in the 5.8/9 range and follow the crest of the narrowing rib through a series of steep to slightly overhanging walls with excellent holds, rock quality and protection.

Location Suggest change

Begin immediately across the gully from the base of the West Buttress of the South Peak and about 30m right of the starts of Duck a L'orange and Black September.

From the summit, scramble west to the west-central summit and downclimb or rappel into the north-central col. Descend the 3rd class scrambling route ramp on the west face to talus below the face.

Protection Suggest change

Full rack to 3".