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Routes in The Old Settler

Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: G. Mumford, T. Ryan 1977
Page Views: 987 total, 9/month
Shared By: Dru on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Begin at the buttress toe, just south of the prominent west couloir. Climb several pitches just right of and on the crest of the buttress to a broad terrace. Cross the terrace and climb just on and left of the buttress crest for several more sustained pitches. As the buttress becomes more ledgy near the top, zigzag around following the easiest line to the summit, the climbing gradually eases off to scrambling. Outstandingly solid, grippy orange rock with many cracks and solid holds. A great route to simulclimb or solo; pitching it all out will take many hours.

Location

From Daiphy Lake, hike up over talus in about an hour to the prominent buttress dropping from the right-hand summit.

On descent, trend southeast down ledges off the summit, skiiers' left side of the south ridge. As the ridge steepens, follow a ramp down to a short chimney that is a 4th class downclimb or can be rapped (25m) off fixed pins. At the base of the ridge, continue south over the first wooded bump before dropping west onto talus below the south face. Follow this talus back down to the lake.

Protection

Light rack biased towards mid size nuts and finger to hand-sized cams. No fixed gear or fixed pins en route but there is a fixed pin rap anchor at the crux of the descent.

Photos

This climb is highly reminiscent of the South Ridge of Ingalls Peak in Washington State, except that it's at least four times as long! If it was located south of the border it would be an absolute mob scene every single weekend. Well worth climbing. Aug 28, 2009