Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: M. Down, K. Duck, June 1982
Page Views: 125 total · 1/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Mar 17, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Gates may be closed. Details

Description

This route takes the broad buttress dropping west from the west-central summit of the Settler. The first half is Class 3 and 4 scrambling, then follow several pitches of mid-5th and finally a series of steeper pitches with sustained 5.7-5.8 climbing.

Location

The start of this route is c. 150m down and left of the starts of Duck a L'orange and Black September at the SW corner of the buttress. There are, however, numerous possible starts, all of which are pretty scrambly at the bottom.

The best descent involves downclimbing 60m north off the west-central summit to the col with the north summit, then downclimbing the 3rd class ramps of the standard route to talus below the west face.

Protection

Although the first ascent reported long runouts and difficulty in finding pro placements, this was before the regular use of cams in alpine climbing. Today, a modern rack with an emphasis on finger to hand-sized pro suffices.

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