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Routes in The Old Settler

Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow
Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: M. Down, K. Duck, June 1982
Page Views: 79 total · 1/month
Shared By: Dru on Mar 17, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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This route takes the broad buttress dropping west from the west-central summit of the Settler. The first half is Class 3 and 4 scrambling, then follow several pitches of mid-5th and finally a series of steeper pitches with sustained 5.7-5.8 climbing.


The start of this route is c. 150m down and left of the starts of Duck a L'orange and Black September at the SW corner of the buttress. There are, however, numerous possible starts, all of which are pretty scrambly at the bottom.

The best descent involves downclimbing 60m north off the west-central summit to the col with the north summit, then downclimbing the 3rd class ramps of the standard route to talus below the west face.


Although the first ascent reported long runouts and difficulty in finding pro placements, this was before the regular use of cams in alpine climbing. Today, a modern rack with an emphasis on finger to hand-sized pro suffices.



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