All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > The Old Settler
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in The Old Settler
|Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||D. Brayshaw, D. Serl, September 2000|
|Page Views:||63 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Dru on Mar 19, 2009|
Gates may be closed. Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
DescriptionThe route was originally attempted by Don Serl and the late Howard Zwecker in the late 90s. Expecting a scramble, they turned back at the start of the technical pitches.
From the col, scrambling left of the crest for about 500m (class 3 and 4) leads to a steepening. Three pitches of 5th class climbing (5.8, 5.8, 5.4) ascend this section, mostly on the exposed and narrow ridge crest. From atop this crux passage, continue via scrambling until it is possible to move left on ramps. Climb two pitches of hard class 4/easy class 5 climbing to gain the south ridge of the north summit about midway from the north-central col to the summit.
The climbing on this route is exposed and the positions are excellent but the rock is not as good as on the southwest side of the peak.
LocationThe northeast ridge of the north summit is reached from Settler Creek. Drive or walk the roadway to its end at Settler Lake (good campsites in forest near the lake). Follow the northern lake shore around the lake, and scramble up rock and heather beyond to gain the toe of the NE ridge.
DESCENT: to regain Settler Creek it is necessary to traverse to the toe of the complete NW ridge and descend the long couloir/gully back down to the logging road; best with some snow still present. With a car shuttle it might be possible to descend one of the more standard descents off the north summit to Daiphy Lake and exit from there to the second car in Talc Creek.