Elevation: 1,139 ft
GPS: 37.678, -83.734 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 71,917 total · 430/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 16, 2006 with improvements by Teeburee and 1 other
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

As you approach the cliff you come to the Solar Collector first. An east-facing wall that gets taller as you move to the right. The routes start at 5.10+ and progress to 5.12 as the wall grows and the lines get longer. The tops of these route will get wet in the rain as the routes go right to the top of the wall.

The next main section of cliff after you pass through a cave and a few slabby routes in black rock that look nice, is the Gold Coast which faces south. This wall is pretty amazing to behold. Route on the main section of wall range from 5.13 to project. The climbing is on holds that are smaller than your typical Red River Gorge fair. Many of the routes follow streaks and will likely be wet if it has been raining a bunch, but they do not go to the top of the wall so should stay dry for the most part except for Black Gold which is in a drainage.

Further right most of the routes are traditional lines of more moderate grades.

Getting There

Take the Fixer Rd turn off to the right near a sign for Lee County. Make your first left and follow the paved road which eventually turns to dirt/gravel. About a mile after the road turns to dirt look for a big gas tank on the left that has been painted to look like some sort of creature, turn right here and follow the road to the end at a RRGCC kiosk.

[EDIT: 01 June 2018] If you are like me and cannot tell that the big gas tank looks like some sort of creature, look for the small wooden sign on the right hand-side when you are about a mile down the road in the dirt section. It is very obvious and just past the creature. Turn right at the sign then follow the dirt road up the hill to the area parking lot. If you come up to a fork in the road after 2-3 miles with a large black tank, you have gone too far.

Pick up the trail to the right of the kiosk and follow it through a ravine and across some logs through a marshy area. You will see a trail signed "Gold Coast" on the right, this trail will take you to the far right side of the cliff which is mostly traditional climbing. The next signed trail you see to the right will be for the "Solar Collector" This trail accesses the two main sections of the wall.

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Solar Collector/Gold Coast

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 64
The Perfect Pint
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 68
Lucky Duck Soup
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Norway On My Mind
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 60
Sunny the Boxer
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 60
Broken Chicken Wing
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 152
Decline of Western Civilization
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 101
Super Pinch
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 140
Green Horn
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 46
Rebar
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 105
Mona Lisa Overdrive
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 91
Buddha Hole
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 37
Ethics Police
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 87
Supafly
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Golden Shower
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 44
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Perfect Pint
 64
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Lucky Duck Soup
 68
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Norway On My Mind
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sunny the Boxer
 60
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Broken Chicken Wing
 60
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Decline of Western Civiliza…
 152
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Super Pinch
 101
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Green Horn
 140
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Rebar
 46
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Mona Lisa Overdrive
 105
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Buddha Hole
 91
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ethics Police
 37
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Supafly
 87
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Golden Shower
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus
 44
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Solar Collector/Gold Coast »

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