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Routes in Solar Collector/Gold Coast

7-11 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amelia's Birthday S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brambly Downslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broken Chicken Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buddha Hole S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttsweat & Tears S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chester Fried Chicken T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chicken Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Decline of Western Civilization S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Destruction Of My Ass V1 5
Erik's First 5.6 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Erik's Second 5.6 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ethics Police S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fubar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
God's Own Stone S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Golden Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Golden Shower S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Green Horn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Tea T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Herd Mentality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Highway Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Duck Soup S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mona Lisa Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Fluff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norway On My Mind S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On the Prowl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peer Review S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perfect Pint, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rebar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Shift S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Riptide Ride T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slow Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoothie Nut T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Space Junk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sunny the Boxer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suns Out Guns Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supafly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Pinch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Love S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Zone of Silence S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Description

As you approach the cliff you come to the Solar Collector first. An east-facing wall that gets taller as you move to the right. The routes start at 5.10+ and progress to 5.12 as the wall grows and the lines get longer. The tops of these route will get wet in the rain as the routes go right to the top of the wall.

The next main section of cliff after you pass through a cave and a few slabby routes in black rock that look nice, is the Gold Coast which faces south. This wall is pretty amazing to behold. Route on the main section of wall range from 5.13 to project. The climbing is on holds that are smaller than your typical Red River Gorge fair. Many of the routes follow streaks and will likely be wet if it has been raining a bunch, but they do not go to the top of the wall so should stay dry for the most part except for Black Gold which is in a drainage.

Further right most of the routes are traditional lines of more moderate grades.

Getting There

Take the Fixer Rd turn off to the right near a sign for Lee County. Make your first left and follow the paved road which eventually turns to dirt/gravel. About a mile after the road turns to dirt look for a big gas tank on the left that has been painted to look like some sort of creature, turn right here and follow the road to the end at a RRGCC kiosk.

[EDIT: 01 June 2018] If you are like me and cannot tell that the big gas tank looks like some sort of creature, look for the small wooden sign on the right hand-side when you are about a mile down the road in the dirt section. It is very obvious and just past the creature. Turn right at the sign then follow the dirt road up the hill to the area parking lot. If you come up to a fork in the road after 2-3 miles with a large black tank, you have gone too far.

Pick up the trail to the right of the kiosk and follow it through a ravine and across some logs through a marshy area. You will see a trail signed "Gold Coast" on the right, this trail will take you to the far right side of the cliff which is mostly traditional climbing. The next signed trail you see to the right will be for the "Solar Collector" This trail accesses the two main sections of the wall.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Solar Collector/Gold Coast

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 46
The Perfect Pint
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 54
Lucky Duck Soup
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
Norway On My Mind
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Sunny the Boxer
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 42
Broken Chicken Wing
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 107
Decline of Western Civilization
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 74
Super Pinch
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 105
Green Horn
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
Rebar
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 79
Mona Lisa Overdrive
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 70
Buddha Hole
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 27
Ethics Police
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 59
Supafly
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Golden Shower
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Perfect Pint
 46
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Lucky Duck Soup
 54
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Norway On My Mind
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sunny the Boxer
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Broken Chicken Wing
 42
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Decline of Western Civiliza…
 107
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Super Pinch
 74
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Green Horn
 105
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Rebar
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Mona Lisa Overdrive
 79
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Buddha Hole
 70
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ethics Police
 27
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Supafly
 59
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Golden Shower
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Kyle Johnston
Louisville, KY
Kyle Johnston   Louisville, KY
Parking lot coordinates: 37.671896, -83.733689.
The "big gas tank on the left" as referred to in the "getting there" directions is just off of the road but somewhat obscured by some trees. It's a black tank. Sep 25, 2017

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