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Routes in Solar Collector/Gold Coast

7-11 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amelia's Birthday S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brambly Downslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broken Chicken Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buddha Hole S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chester Fried Chicken T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chicken Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Decline of Western Civilization S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Erik's First 5.6 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Erik's Second 5.6 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethics Police S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fubar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
God's Own Stone S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Golden Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Golden Shower S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Green Horn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Herd Mentality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Highway Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Duck Soup S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mona Lisa Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Fluff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norway On My Mind S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On the Prowl S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peer Review S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perfect Pint, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rebar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Shift S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Slow Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoothie Nut T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Space Junk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sunny the Boxer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suns Out Guns Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supafly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Pinch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Love S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Zone of Silence S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rob McFall, 1999
Page Views: 1,013 total, 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Herd Mentality ascends a beautiful leaning wall of calico orange sandstone. The rock here is somewhat slopey, but also offers amazing friction, cool pockets, and a few good crimps. This line is an excellent endurance route, with a not-too-powerful crux just below mid-height. There is only one really great rest, that comes before the business, so the real challenge is keeping it together over the last few bolts despite a significant pump.

Begin up a vertical seam with unusual, sequential moves to gain the man-sized hueco. Mantle into the hole for a sit-down rest. Exit the left side of the hole, and veer up & left. The crux hits with a vicious sloper. Near the second enormous hole, the line veers back right, avoiding the second rest. The route eases gradually, eventually culminating in long cranks between massive jugs. Climb into a shallow scoop at the last bolt, before surmounting a final bulge just below the chains.

Location

3rd bolted route left of the obvious dihedral, on the right end of the Solar Collector wall.

Protection

8 Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor. the first bolt is very high, stick clip recommended.

Photos

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JamesW  
The 2nd hueco is not part of the route. Dec 29, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
As far as I could tell, the first enormous hueco was "on", and the other one was not "on". Anyway, that's how I climbed it, and the grade seemed right. I'm not sure this would be 12c if you got a sit-down rest in the second hole.

Also, this route stays dry when most of the other routes here (like blue-eyed honkey & psychopathy) are wet. Dec 19, 2008