Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rob McFall, 1999
Page Views: 1,184 total · 10/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Herd Mentality ascends a beautiful leaning wall of calico orange sandstone. The rock here is somewhat slopey, but also offers amazing friction, cool pockets, and a few good crimps. This line is an excellent endurance route, with a not-too-powerful crux just below mid-height. There is only one really great rest, that comes before the business, so the real challenge is keeping it together over the last few bolts despite a significant pump.

Begin up a vertical seam with unusual, sequential moves to gain the man-sized hueco. Mantle into the hole for a sit-down rest. Exit the left side of the hole, and veer up & left. The crux hits with a vicious sloper. Near the second enormous hole, the line veers back right, avoiding the second rest. The route eases gradually, eventually culminating in long cranks between massive jugs. Climb into a shallow scoop at the last bolt, before surmounting a final bulge just below the chains.

Location

3rd bolted route left of the obvious dihedral, on the right end of the Solar Collector wall.

Protection

8 Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor. the first bolt is very high, stick clip recommended.

Photos

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Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12c
As far as I could tell, the first enormous hueco was "on", and the other one was not "on". Anyway, that's how I climbed it, and the grade seemed right. I'm not sure this would be 12c if you got a sit-down rest in the second hole.

Also, this route stays dry when most of the other routes here (like blue-eyed honkey & psychopathy) are wet. Dec 19, 2008
JamesW  
The 2nd hueco is not part of the route. Dec 29, 2008
Climbed 11.4.18, I used the 2nd large hueco on the left and made an awkward, reachy clip from it. Even though the climbing gets significantly easier after the hueco, using it downgrades it for pump factor for the next bolt or two in my opinion. Super juggy at the top. Others who had been there more than me seemed to think it was on/ used or saw others using it. There is definitely a healthy line of chalk leading into it. Perhaps it should just be considered on and downgraded? Thats for someone with more red river clout to decide, definitely seems a little contrived for it to be considered 'off.' Nov 5, 2018