Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft (15 m)|
|Page Views:||6,173 total · 47/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 30, 2010|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek|
Unfortunately the aesthetic look of the wall is attributed to nearly constant water run-off that makes this line a frustrating project. If you are lucky enough to find the wall in good conditions, seize the opportunity to enjoy one of the best 13+ routes at the Red.
Begin far to the right, mantling onto a big sandy ledge. Move left, clip the first draw, then make 3-4 big moves up a heavily featured pillar to a no-hands rest in an alcove. Move left from the alcove ("God's Own Stone" heads right) up sharp orange stone, making a big reach to a good pocket. Traverse straight left to enter the black streak, then bolt up & left on great patina crimps to reach a protruding tongue. Make big cranks on square-cut full-pad crimps to reach the obvious hole near the 7th bolt. Cruxy moves lead left to the big hueco and a much-needed shake. Another big reach gains the next rail; move right, clip, then up to a big sloping edge. Make a hard crank off a tiny crimp, or dyno for the next rail. A few easier moves lead to big jugs at the anchor.