Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bill Ramsey
Page Views: 4,074 total · 42/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 30, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This beautiful streaked wall offers brilliant, sequential reaches on impeccable crimps. Black Gold is unique from its neighbors in that the holds are virtually all neutral-to-positive, as opposed to the notorious slopey rails found to the right. Although the line appears reachy from the ground, numerous hard-to-see intermediates offer options for all sizes.

Unfortunately the aesthetic look of the wall is attributed to nearly constant water run-off that makes this line a frustrating project. If you are lucky enough to find the wall in good conditions, seize the opportunity to enjoy one of the best 13+ routes at the Red.

Begin far to the right, mantling onto a big sandy ledge. Move left, clip the first draw, then make 3-4 big moves up a heavily featured pillar to a no-hands rest in an alcove. Move left from the alcove ("God's Own Stone" heads right) up sharp orange stone, making a big reach to a good pocket. Traverse straight left to enter the black streak, then bolt up & left on great patina crimps to reach a protruding tongue. Make big cranks on square-cut full-pad crimps to reach the obvious hole near the 7th bolt. Cruxy moves lead left to the big hueco and a much-needed shake. Another big reach gains the next rail; move right, clip, then up to a big sloping edge. Make a hard crank off a tiny crimp, or dyno for the next rail. A few easier moves lead to big jugs at the anchor.

Location

At the far left end of the main Gold Coast wall, climbing a wide, double black streak.

Protection

8 bolts, 2BA.

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