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Routes in Solar Collector/Gold Coast

7-11 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amelia's Birthday S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brambly Downslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broken Chicken Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buddha Hole S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttsweat & Tears S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chester Fried Chicken T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chicken Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Decline of Western Civilization S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Erik's First 5.6 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Erik's Second 5.6 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethics Police S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fubar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
God's Own Stone S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Golden Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Golden Shower S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Green Horn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Herd Mentality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Highway Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Duck Soup S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mona Lisa Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Fluff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norway On My Mind S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On the Prowl S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peer Review S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perfect Pint, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rebar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Shift S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Riptide Ride T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slow Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoothie Nut T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Space Junk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sunny the Boxer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suns Out Guns Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supafly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Pinch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Love S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Zone of Silence S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jared Hancock, Mark Ryan, Jenny Ryan - 2006
Page Views: 833 total, 10/month
Shared By: Andrew Fischer on May 10, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Nice slab climb just to the left of an obvious arete. Begin from a small ledge 10 feet above the trail. Use the arete where possible.

Location

Follow the alternate approach trail uphill to a bolted line right as the trail meets the cliff.

Protection

5 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Dan Horseman  
 
This is the first route you come to from the approach trail. Thin first few moves if you don't stick clip, but it doesn't sound like the route described in previous comments. Maybe a reachy move or two, but definitely 5.9 or 5.9+ Oct 20, 2016
From the description given above, my group and I thought we were on this climb. We still aren't 100% sure though. If we were on the correct route, there is absolutely no way this climb is a 5.9 as the RRG guidebook calls it, or a 5.10a as shown above. The bottom 2.5 bolts were definitely a slab climb, but EXTREMELY technical and in at least the 10c-10d range. Above that, the climb got slightly overhanging and was basically a super sustained crimp fest in the quarter to half pad range, with holds being spaced a pretty good distance part. This didn't improve much until the last bolt. All in all I would put this climb in the11b-c range at least. I would love to know if I'm going off the deep end here and talking about an unlisted new route because I'm not sure. Aug 21, 2016
without a stick clip to first moves are very committing, as you are starting on a ledge five or ten feet up, and climbing another five feet to the first bolt. Apr 11, 2016