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Routes in Gold Coast
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100 Ounces of Gold S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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7-11 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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All Gold Everything S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Amelia's Birthday S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Black Gold S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Brilliant Orange S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Broken Chicken Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chester Fried Chicken T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Chrysopoeia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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David and Goliath S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Erik's First 5.6 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Erik's Second 5.6 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Explanatory Gap S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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From the Ashes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fubar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Futuristic Testpiece T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gecko Circus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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God's Own Stone S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Gold Nugget S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Golden Shower S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Goldilocks S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Green Tea T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Highway Turtle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Pursuit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lucky Duck Soup S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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No Fluff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Norway On My Mind S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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On the Prowl S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Peer Review S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Perfect Pint, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pyrite S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rebar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Shift S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Riptide Ride T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slow Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Smoothie Nut T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sunny the Boxer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Suns Out Guns Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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True Love S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Twenty Four Karats S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Zone of Silence S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 37.67601, -83.73396 |
| FA: | Dave Hume 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,289 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 30, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Description
This intruiging wall of pockets offers excellent climbing, but is unfortunately marred by contrived bolting. The author intended for the line to follow a monolithic panel of sparse pockets, and that is where the bolts were placed, despite a plentiful streak of pockets 4 feet right. The result is problematic whether climbed directly or following the path of least resistance, presenting confusing routefinding for those hoping to climb the original 12c vision, or difficult clips and unpleasant pendilum falls for the rest. Both lines offer generally shallow and slopey pockets that are not as good as they look from below. At the top, the lines converge forcing a tricky slab move to reach the anchor.
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