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Routes in Solar Collector/Gold Coast

7-11 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amelia's Birthday S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brambly Downslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broken Chicken Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buddha Hole S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chester Fried Chicken T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chicken Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Decline of Western Civilization S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Erik's First 5.6 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Erik's Second 5.6 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethics Police S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fubar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
God's Own Stone S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Golden Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Golden Shower S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Green Horn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Herd Mentality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Highway Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Duck Soup S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mona Lisa Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Fluff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norway On My Mind S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On the Prowl S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peer Review S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perfect Pint, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rebar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Shift S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Slow Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoothie Nut T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Space Junk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sunny the Boxer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suns Out Guns Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supafly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Pinch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Love S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Zone of Silence S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bill Ramsey
Page Views: 3,661 total, 45/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Mar 3, 2011
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

This may be the best route at the Red, if you care about little things like aesthetics, movement, setting and rock quality. On the unmistakable Gold Coast, this route follows the most distinct line of pockets, dripping down the wall but dwindling to a trickle, not quite reaching the ground. It clearly has the largest pockets on the wall and, thus, the easiest climbing, but you'll have to survive the characteristic Gold Coast slopey crimps at the start to get to those pockets. Start in a jumble of boulders, make a few very long moves up to a ledge, then cast off up the gently overhanging face. The hardest moves are encountered quickly, before the largest pockets are reached, but a stopper redpoint crux lies in wait higher on the route. Nail this, and you're treated to big fun moves on larger holds to the top.

Some think this route is harder than Black Gold, and surprisingly it resisted a first ascent for much longer than some of the harder routes. However, it is highly dependent on conditions. If you've learned that rock climbing should happen when it's 45 degrees and 50% humidity rather than 70 and 70%, then you'll find the grade to be about right.

Location

On the Gold Coast Wall, this is the 2nd route from the right on the main wall, proper (not counting that bolted dihedral.

Protection

bolts

Photos

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