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Ethics Police
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 102
votes
Routes in Solar Collector
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Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Brambly Downslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brouwer Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Buddha Hole S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Buttsweat & Tears S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chicken Boy S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Decline of Western Civilization, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ethics Police S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Green Horn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Herd Mentality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mona Lisa Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Psychochicken T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Psychopathy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Space Junk S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Supafly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Super Pinch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yakuza T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | 37.67785, -83.73527 |
| FA: | Rob McFall 1999 |
| Page Views: | 3,999 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Oct 11, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Description
This line features one of the enormous body-swallowing huecos that this cliff is famous for. The crux comes with balancy moves exiting this hueco, and apparently a key crimp broke several years ago making this crux a bit more difficult than it used to be, and causing some to suggest that the route is now 12a. Despite local opinion, the un-sustained nature of the difficulties may make this line seem easier than Buddha Hole if you aren't used to endless jug-hauling.
Begin right of a generally chalk-less gray streak (with the rarely-climbed 12c "Psycopathy"). Small but positive pockets lead up to the big purple sloper rail. Easy liebacks lead up into the hueco. Exit the right side of the hueco with difficulty, then make pumpy reaches between slopey holes. Eventually the wall becomes more featured as you race the pump to the anchor.
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