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Routes in Solar Collector/Gold Coast

7-11 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amelia's Birthday S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black Gold S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brambly Downslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broken Chicken Wing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buddha Hole S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttsweat & Tears S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chester Fried Chicken T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chicken Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Decline of Western Civilization S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Erik's First 5.6 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Erik's Second 5.6 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ethics Police S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fubar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
God's Own Stone S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Golden Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Golden Shower S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Green Horn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Herd Mentality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Highway Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Duck Soup S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mona Lisa Overdrive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Fluff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Norway On My Mind S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On the Prowl S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Peer Review S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perfect Pint, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rebar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Shift S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Riptide Ride T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slow Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoothie Nut T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Space Junk S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sunny the Boxer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suns Out Guns Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Supafly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Pinch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
True Love S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Zone of Silence S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Rob McFall
Page Views: 1,468 total, 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 11, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

This line features one of the enormous body-swallowing huecos that this cliff is famous for. The crux comes with balancy moves exiting this hueco, and apparently a key crimp broke several years ago making this crux a bit more difficult than it used to be, and causing some to suggest that the route is now 12a. Despite local opinion, the un-sustained nature of the difficulties may make this line seem easier than Buddha Hole if you aren't used to endless jug-hauling.

Begin right of a generally chalk-less gray streak (with the rarely-climbed 12c "Psycopathy"). Small but positive pockets lead up to the big purple sloper rail. Easy liebacks lead up into the hueco. Exit the right side of the hueco with difficulty, then make pumpy reaches between slopey holes. Eventually the wall becomes more featured as you race the pump to the anchor.

Location

Next line right of the bolted dark-gray streak. Also the sixth bolted route from the left side of the cliff.

Protection

~7 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

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