The Dungeon Rock Climbing
Areas in The Dungeon
45° Boulder 1 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Black Wall 1 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Fin Wall, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Main Wall 0 / 16 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Thrasher Area 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Trash Tower 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Witch Tower 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
|GPS:||35.869, -106.357 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||35,896 total, 260/month|
|Shared By:||Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionHome to primo, rhyolite sport climbing. Some of the best steep routes in New Mexico. The area has over 30 sport routes, though around 23 of them are 5.12 and up. There are around 13 below 5.12.
In contrast to White Rock, this area is a nice summer area. The Main Wall is shaded all day, and can even be climbed during rain storms.
Getting ThereDrive into Los Alamos via Highway 502 (Main Hill Rd.). After passing the airport, continue on Trinity Boulevard to Diamond Dr. (hospital's on the left). Turn left (south) onto Diamond Dr., soon after which you will drive over a large bridge. (Folks who have not been in the area for a few years will notice a few changes to the roadway at this point as Los Alamos National Laboratory thought it was necessary to drastically alter the natural flow of traffic to make room for a large security perimeter guard station; don't worry, you do not need a badge or ID to get through.) Turn right at the first light. Pass through a guard station, continue up West Jemez Rd. for approximately 2 miles, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Resort (Camp May Rd.). About 0.5 miles past Camp May Rd., look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here. (GPS: Lon: -106.35262; Lat: 35.86575).
Walk North from the parking area, passing a large metal erosion control contraption and follow the trail for about 1/2 mile until you come onto the Main Wall (it's big and overhanging, it will be obvious).
- Note: There is an alternative means of accessing the Dungeon, which bypasses the LANL "Security Perimeter" guard station. Vehicles and people entering LANL are subject to being searched. After turning left (south) onto Diamond Dr., immediately get in the right-hand lane and turn right at the traffic light onto West Rd. just before the bridge. Follow West Rd. down into the canyon, passing an ice rink on your left. Continue up this road, back out of the canyon, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Hill (Camp May Rd.) on your right. Shortly after Camp May Rd., you will merge with West Jemez Rd., but will have bypassed all of the LANL "security" area. About 0.5 miles after merging with W. Jemez, look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here.
(More thorough directions provided thanks to Jason Hundhausen.)
Classic Climbing Routes at The Dungeon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season