Elevation: 6,219 ft
GPS: 35.869, -106.357 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,545 total · 312/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Today
64°F - 43°F 18°C - 6°C
Sat
70°F - 46°F 21°C - 8°C
Sun
70°F - 42°F 21°C - 6°C
Memorial Day
61°F - 36°F 16°C - 2°C
Tue
57°F - 38°F 14°C - 3°C
Wed
63°F - 43°F 17°C - 6°C

Description

Home to primo, rhyolite sport climbing. Some of the best steep routes in New Mexico. The area has over 30 sport routes, though around 23 of them are 5.12 and up. There are around 13 below 5.12.

In contrast to White Rock, this area is a nice summer area. The Main Wall is shaded all day, and can even be climbed during rain storms.

Getting There

Drive into Los Alamos via Highway 502 (Main Hill Rd.). After passing the airport, continue on Trinity Boulevard to Diamond Dr. (hospital's on the left). Turn left (south) onto Diamond Dr., soon after which you will drive over a large bridge. (Folks who have not been in the area for a few years will notice a few changes to the roadway at this point as Los Alamos National Laboratory thought it was necessary to drastically alter the natural flow of traffic to make room for a large security perimeter guard station; don't worry, you do not need a badge or ID to get through.) Turn right at the first light. Pass through a guard station, continue up West Jemez Rd. for approximately 2 miles, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Resort (Camp May Rd.). About 0.5 miles past Camp May Rd., look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here. (GPS: Lon: -106.35262; Lat: 35.86575).

Walk North from the parking area, passing a large metal erosion control contraption and follow the trail for about 1/2 mile until you come onto the Main Wall (it's big and overhanging, it will be obvious).

  • Note: There is an alternative means of accessing the Dungeon, which bypasses the LANL "Security Perimeter" guard station. Vehicles and people entering LANL are subject to being searched. After turning left (south) onto Diamond Dr., immediately get in the right-hand lane and turn right at the traffic light onto West Rd. just before the bridge. Follow West Rd. down into the canyon, passing an ice rink on your left. Continue up this road, back out of the canyon, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Hill (Camp May Rd.) on your right. Shortly after Camp May Rd., you will merge with West Jemez Rd., but will have bypassed all of the LANL "security" area. About 0.5 miles after merging with W. Jemez, look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here.

(More thorough directions provided thanks to Jason Hundhausen.)

Guidebooks

  • "Jemez Rock" guide by Marc Beverly
  • Jackson's "Rock Climbing: New Mexico"

45 Total Climbs

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Location: The Dungeon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Dungeon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 38
Trash Disco
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
Rampage
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 24
Weenies Go Like This (aka Garbag…
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 55
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 50
Moat Jump
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Crimp Chimp
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 21
Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope)
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 38
Gangland
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
Tendon Bendin'
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Moat Pump
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
Beastmaster
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
Meltdown
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 21
Evil Alchemist
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 16
Loose Cannon
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
The Catapult
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trash Disco Trash Tower
 38
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rampage Black Wall
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Weenies Go Like This (aka G… Trash Tower
 24
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Against Nature (aka Peter's… Main Wall
 55
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Moat Jump Main Wall
 50
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Crimp Chimp 45° Boulder
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope) 45° Boulder
 21
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Gangland Main Wall
 38
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tendon Bendin' 45° Boulder
 21
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Moat Pump Main Wall
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Beastmaster 45° Boulder
 21
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Meltdown Main Wall
 20
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Evil Alchemist Main Wall
 21
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Loose Cannon Main Wall
 16
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Catapult Main Wall
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Dungeon »

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