All Locations > New Mexico > Los Alamos & White Rock

The Dungeon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in The Dungeon

45° Boulder 1 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14

Black Wall 1 / 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Fin Wall, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Main Wall 0 / 18 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Thrasher Area 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Trash Tower 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Witch Tower 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Elevation:	7,862 ft
GPS:	35.86907, -106.35693 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	103,502 total · 496/month
Shared By:	Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: July 28th, 2023 - LANL Stage II Fire Restrictions Details

Due to dry conditions, Los Alamos National Laboratory has activated stage 2 fire restrictions as of Thursday, July 27, 2023 to reduce the risk of human-caused wildfire, protect natural and cultural resources, and enhance public and firefighter safety. While stage 2 restrictions on other lands doesn't mean a closure to trails, LANL's stage 2 restrictions state, "“Recreation-like” activities (e.g., walking, jogging, hiking, biking, and similar activities) are prohibited in all undeveloped areas except on asphalt roads, TA-71, TA-72 and the Wellness trail between the TA-3-1663 Wellness Center and TA-16 Fire Station 5 (TA-16-180)."
This could mean parking at the normal Dungeon parking area, which is on LANL land, is prohibited. Look for signage and be aware of this closure. If asked to leave, please leave.

Description

Home to primo, rhyolite sport climbing. Some of the best steep routes in New Mexico. The area has over 30 sport routes, though around 23 of them are 5.12 and up. There are around 13 below 5.12.

In contrast to White Rock, this area is a nice summer area. The Main Wall is shaded all day, and can even be climbed during rain storms.

Getting There

Drive into Los Alamos via Highway 502 (Main Hill Rd.). After passing the airport, continue on Trinity Boulevard to Diamond Dr. (hospital's on the left). Turn left (south) onto Diamond Dr., soon after which you will drive over a large bridge. (Folks who have not been in the area for a few years will notice a few changes to the roadway at this point as Los Alamos National Laboratory thought it was necessary to drastically alter the natural flow of traffic to make room for a large security perimeter guard station; don't worry, you do not need a badge or ID to get through.) Turn right at the first light. Pass through a guard station, continue up West Jemez Rd. for approximately 2 miles, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Resort (Camp May Rd.). About 0.5 miles past Camp May Rd., look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here. (GPS: Lon: -106.35262; Lat: 35.86575).

Walk North from the parking area, passing a large metal erosion control contraption and follow the trail for about 1/2 mile until you come onto the Main Wall (it's big and overhanging, it will be obvious).

Note: There is an alternative means of accessing the Dungeon, which bypasses the LANL "Security Perimeter" guard station. Vehicles and people entering LANL are subject to being searched. After turning left (south) onto Diamond Dr., immediately get in the right-hand lane and turn right at the traffic light onto West Rd. just before the bridge. Follow West Rd. down into the canyon, passing an ice rink on your left. Continue up this road, back out of the canyon, passing the turn-off for the Pajarito Ski Hill (Camp May Rd.) on your right. Shortly after Camp May Rd., you will merge with West Jemez Rd., but will have bypassed all of the LANL "security" area. About 0.5 miles after merging with W. Jemez, look for a pull-out and parking lot on the right, which is at the trailhead for the Dungeon; turn in and park here.

(More thorough directions provided thanks to Jason Hundhausen.)

Guidebooks

"Jemez Rock" guide by Marc Beverly
Jackson's "Rock Climbing: New Mexico"

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Dungeon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 36 ● Rampage Sport Black Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 82 ● Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) Sport Main Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 76 ● Moat Jump Sport Main Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 61 ● Crimp Chimp Sport 45° Boulder
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 28 ● Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope) Sport 45° Boulder
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 48 ● Gangland Sport Main Wall
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 29 ● Tendon Bendin' Sport 45° Boulder
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 20 ● Moat Pump Sport Main Wall
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 33 ● Beastmaster Sport 45° Boulder
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 25 ● Meltdown Sport Main Wall
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 21 ● Siege Warfare Sport Main Wall
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 25 ● Evil Alchemist Sport Main Wall
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 12 ● Dragonslayer Sport 45° Boulder
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 11 ● Death Drives a Stick Sport Main Wall
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 23 ● Loose Cannon Sport Main Wall