Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Luke Laeser and Casey something
Page Views: 2,693 total · 19/month
Shared By: Matthew NM on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Fairly steep bouldery/fingery climbing up the farthest route right on the right side of the 45deg boulder. Fun.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

Photos

I bolted this one with a guy who was working at the santa fe rock gym. Casey something... anyway. Peter wasn't around for that one. One of my favorites at the dungeon. I think the second route. Jan 30, 2008
Dave Wachter  
 
Excellent route. Particularly challenging in early afternoon (at least during spring) when you pull onto the upper section and the sun hits you right in the eyes. Apr 26, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
Stickclip bolt 2 if 12a is hard for you, especially if you don't have the beta dialed. The technical crux is just before bolt 2 and the 2nd clip can be challenging. Angle right after clipping the 3rd bolt to stay on Crimp Chimp, which starts what is generally regarded as the redpoint crux. Although most find it a bit more difficult than the other popular 12-'s, Against Nature and Moat Jump, strong people who regularly climb steep stuff may find Crimp Chimp to be easier, as it's more straightforward to read than those climbs.

Oh, and don't be deterred by the name: it's not that heinously crimpy.

An alternate, slightly harder (5.12b) finish to this climb angles left from bolt 3 past an independent bolt to the Tendon Bendin' anchors. It's worthy if you're bored of the same old Crimp Chimp, but is not as good as the normal finish. It has a big move where the climb diverges from Crimp Chimp. Also, using the same-link-up bolt, one can also cross from Tendon Bender into the end of Crimp Chimp ("Moonboot Mission", 12c, which I haven't tried); that seems a less logical line and would climb through some choss after the lip but adds a couple more hard moves to Tendon Bender. Jul 13, 2012
David Graham
Dallas
  5.12a
David Graham   Dallas
  5.12a
a whole lot of fun with one crux move, maybe 2. Most of the holds are almost jugs, IDK why it's called crimp chimp but it's a cool name. It may not be an uber classic but I give 4 stars because of how fun it is. May 5, 2014
Daniel Woods onsighted this route at 13 years old. Pretty cool! May 7, 2014
Owen S.
Los Alamos
 
Owen S.   Los Alamos
 
yeah I guess he climbed a bunch at ponderosa and the temple BITD with cody roth and jon cardwell. TMBJ was his first v10 apparently. May 8, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a/b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a/b
david Graham wrote:...IDK why it's called crimp chimp but it's a cool name.
Probably because the first half of the route is all crimps. May 9, 2014