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Routes in Main Wall

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Castle Greyskull V4 6B
Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Death Drives a Stick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Alchemist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phrenology S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rogue Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Siege Warfare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Peter Gram
Page Views: 2,825 total · 24/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - All Los Alamos/White Rock climbing areas closed due to Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start up steep rock with jugs, pulling a few big moves off of underclings. Once on the face the holds shrink with the angle, and a few sequency moves appear. Snag a mediocre rest, and pull the crux thin face moves, to easier ground up to the anchors.

There seem to be many extensions to this route, Apparently if you get to the upper anchors on Loose Cannon it is 12c, and if you make it to the very top it is considered 12d. Although from the obvious anchors for Gangland, this didn't seem real obvious, looks like you would break right before clipping the Gangland anchors to get to the anchors on Loose Cannon.

Sometimes called Excalibur, but apparently Gangland was the original name.

Location [Suggest Change]

In the center of the wall, Between Against Nature and Loose Cannon.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts to first anchor; 8 bolts if going to the Loose Cannon anchor; several (5)? more if continuing up to the very top of the cliff.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
To get to the Loose Cannon anchors, you would clip a bolts about 4 feet to the right of the last bolt on gangland and then the last bolt on Loose Cannon. Depending on how you do the traverse makes the whole route feel different, you can traverse at the level of the connecting bolt or with the connecting bolt down by your feet when you are in the underclings that you could clip the Gangland anchors from which would allow a great rest just before taking on the final crux of Loose Cannon.

  • NOTE: I'm not saying one way is OK and the other is not, just that they are different and I have no opinion on the grade of either, weather one gets the extra letter and the other not, whatever. I do however think that this extension makes Gangland a better route, I really enjoy the additional moves.

The roof extension off of Loose Cannon has good rock but kind of a jacked finish. There is also a roof extension to Gangland that goes out above it's anchor that has apparently not been done yet. Though this may be as much because of the rock as difficulty. Jul 25, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12b
2 useful holds were recently broken off at the upper (slab) crux at the 2nd-to-last bolt, making the climb somewhat harder (edited 9/2014, as a 2nd hold just broke recently)

Other beta:
This is another one at the Dungeon on which you don't want to blow it before clipping the 2nd bolt, and it's fairly sequency to get there, so one may want to stick-clip b2 if you don't feel confident up to that point.

The 1st crux clip (b4) is considerably easier if a draw (long is better) is already hanging.

The extension to the Loose Cannon anchor is definitely worth doing (with this finish, best 12 at the Dungeon?). However, people don't do it as often because it is annoying to clean draws while lowering from there. It's also a little spooky the first time or if it's hard for you: if you fall after you get established in the undercling finish, it's a pretty big ride and people have occasionally gotten banged up a little from it.

I know it's been done (it is the true full original Gangland route), but I've never seen anyone bother to continue climbing past the Loose Cannon anchor to the anchor at the very top; it looks pretty chossy up there.

The deal with the names is: Gangland (properly, the full version) includes the extension to the right to the Loose Cannon anchor, and the chossy headwall above it as well. When the lowest anchor below the roof was put in, it was called "Excalibur" by the people who put that anchor in, but now most people refer to the climb to the lowest anchor below the roof as Gangland. (Does it "deserve" a separate name? Whatever.) Jun 29, 2012
Dan Nix
 
Dan Nix  
 
Finally sent this route thanks to local beta in Volume XII of the Climbing Zine, courtesy of George Perkins from the Dungeon. Apr 4, 2018
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12b
Dan Nix wrote:Finally sent this route thanks to local beta in Volume XII of the Climbing Zine, courtesy of George Perkins from the Dungeon.
Pull up. Cross over to undercling with the right hand, reach high left to the pocket. Place the outside of my right foot flat in the hole, reach high with the right hand, bump again with the right to a side pull, stem, reach high left, to the jug. Start the technical crux, cross over with the left hand, make the tiny high right-hand crimp, bump it to the baseball, hit the tooth with the left, and shake with a drop knee. Then sprint: left hand straight above, match with the right, left, then right again to the three-finger pocket, bear down for the hard clip, make a long reach left to the diagonal edge. Go far with the right hand to the square edge, left hand straight up to the crimp, match on it, and roll over left to the rest.

But how long did you spend on the CM Bivy Ledge rest!? :-) Apr 5, 2018

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