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Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Castle Greyskull V4 6B
Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Death Drives a Stick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Alchemist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phrenology S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rogue Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Siege Warfare S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Peter Gram
Page Views: 2,816 total, 22/month
Shared By: Matthew NM on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The extension of Against Nature through the horizonal roof. Surprisingly, the wobbly "diving board" hold that rattles a full 5" if you push on it is solid...to pull on...I swear. Your belayer is best out of the way when you're making use of this hold. Nonetheless, above this business lies some additional hardness, apparently harder now that a few holds have broken. Rumored to be solid 5.13.

Protection

fixed draws above Against Nature's anchors
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
ange heying wrote:can anybody tell how you should do death drives a stick should do it in two pitches or one
The standard is to climb Against Nature and simply keep going above the Against Nature anchors. Typically most just clip the right-side anchor chain of the Against Nature anchors and keep keep going. The first few clips above the anchor chain are fixed draws so it should be obvious where to go. Mar 8, 2016
Richard Heying
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Richard Heying   Albuquerque, New Mexico
can anybody tell how you should do death drives a stick should do it in two pitches or one Mar 8, 2016
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13b
Thanks to whomever replaced all the draws that you clip with cable permadraws. It is nice to not have any questions about draw quality when you're jumping off the finish. It helps to take the time to work out the finishing mantle, it's not too bad once you know where the holds are. Aug 26, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I learned today the name of the route was inspired by an episode of The Simpsons. Aug 18, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13
Also rumored to be easier according to Peter Gram. Because some of the breakage made one of the crimps better, though still not good enough to clip off of.

On red-point don't bother trying to clip the bolt after the two in the roof, I think this would be the 4th bolt on the extension or the second to last bolt. See for more info on which bolt to skip. Jan 5, 2009