Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Peter Gram
Page Views: 4,840 total · 32/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

Beautiful route just right of Siege Warfare. Climb steep overhung rock at the bottom section and pull the bulge. From there continue up slabby technical rock to the anchors underneath the large overhang. The crux varies, some people feel it is pulling the bulge while others feel like it is going through a technical crimpy section near the top 2/3rds of the climb.

Location

Center of the Main Wall, just right of Siege Warfare, identifiable by the glue-in first bolt.

See
Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first bolt is a glue-in bolt and often skipped in favor of stick-clipping the second bolt.

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12b
aka "Against Nature" Jul 3, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.12b
Note that the beta photo that I created is slightly incorrect on this route. I apologies for that. Should someone post a new photo I am more than happy to replace the current one. Jul 9, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Super fun route. Hard moves off the deck with a good rest right afterward. Fun, balancy moves higher up too. Aug 8, 2007
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
First ascent was Peter Gram, who was aided by many other belay slaves. This was put up on lead. Aug 30, 2007
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
Preclip the 2nd bolt or you will probably deck from 10-12' up, should you fall at the beta-intensive crux. Most people skip the first bolt, as it's hard to clip from the easiest way climbing to its right, and it's almost too low to be useful. This is because the ground level is higher now than when the climb was put up.

Leaders near their limit will find it helpful if they don't have to hang the draw at the redpoint crux (b4/ b3 if you don't count the glue-in first bolt everyone skips). Apr 6, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
This route can be identified as the only route on the main wall with a glue-in bolt for the first bolt. Jul 6, 2009
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
I would agree that stick clipping the first bolt is wise, but you should have no need to pre-clip the second. If you blow the crux, the fall on the first bolt is clean other than possibly hitting the rope, especially now that there is a glue in instead of that semi-old SMC rig that used to be there. Oct 4, 2009
Andrew Schmalzer
  5.12a
Andrew Schmalzer  
  5.12a
Beat my time- 1min, 12.75s. All draws were pre-hung, rope was not stick clipped through first draw. Time starts when you leave the ground and ends when the rope is through both anchors. Forest Altherr was timer for my go. Apr 30, 2018