Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Ed Strang
Page Views: 2,599 total · 20/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Starts on easy jugs, and gets progressively harder as you get higher. Pull a few moves off some small crimps and setup for the final desperate crux at the anchors.

Location

First route on the left side of the Mainwall. On the small pillar just left of the chimney. Between Phrenology and Battering Ram.

Protection

4 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

Dave Wachter
  5.12c
Dave Wachter  
  5.12c
Short but sustained. Bouldery crux at the top will test your crimp and core reserves. Maybe with lots of power endurance and perfect beta this could go at 12b... why can't we all just be sick-strong like Mike and crush our way through on-sight and say, "that wasn't too bad, now was it?" "12-!" Great route, though, for sure, whatever the grade! May 14, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12c
Hey Dave, after an extensive alcohol fueled debate about my proposed downgrades on Mountain Project, I realized that this is one I wasn't sure of. So I've updated the rating to reflect the consensus and probably more accurate grade of 12c. I still think that Rogue Warrior might be harder than this.

Now about the Demon... I'm staying solid on that one. Mar 15, 2010
FA: Ed Strang Sep 2, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12c
Fun climb. If one is willing to deviate off the bolt line, it can be made easier.
-It's possible to avoid the crux (or do an easier version of it) after clipping the last bolt by moving left rather than climbing straight up to the anchor.
-Good rests (kneebars & jugs) can be found around bolt 3 by moving right to or almost to the chossy wide crack. Oct 3, 2014