Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Castle Greyskull V4 6B
Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Death Drives a Stick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Alchemist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phrenology S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rogue Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Siege Warfare S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Ed Strang
Page Views: 2,474 total, 22/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Starts on easy jugs, and gets progressively harder as you get higher. Pull a few moves off some small crimps and setup for the final desperate crux at the anchors.

Location

First route on the left side of the Mainwall. On the small pillar just left of the chimney. Between Phrenology and Battering Ram.

Protection

4 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12c
Fun climb. If one is willing to deviate off the bolt line, it can be made easier.
-It's possible to avoid the crux (or do an easier version of it) after clipping the last bolt by moving left rather than climbing straight up to the anchor.
-Good rests (kneebars & jugs) can be found around bolt 3 by moving right to or almost to the chossy wide crack. Oct 3, 2014
FA: Ed Strang Sep 2, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Hey Dave, after an extensive alcohol fueled debate about my proposed downgrades on Mountain Project, I realized that this is one I wasn't sure of. So I've updated the rating to reflect the consensus and probably more accurate grade of 12c. I still think that Rogue Warrior might be harder than this.

Now about the Demon... I'm staying solid on that one. Mar 15, 2010
Dave Wachter
  5.12c
Dave Wachter  
  5.12c
Short but sustained. Bouldery crux at the top will test your crimp and core reserves. Maybe with lots of power endurance and perfect beta this could go at 12b... why can't we all just be sick-strong like Mike and crush our way through on-sight and say, "that wasn't too bad, now was it?" "12-!" Great route, though, for sure, whatever the grade! May 14, 2009