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Elevation: 7,934 ft 2,418 m
GPS: 35.86945, -106.35773
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,153 total · 180/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
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Description Suggest change

The large overwhelming, overhung cliff on the left side of the canyon. This cliff steals the show with great, difficult routes.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the directions to the Dungeon climbing area.

Routes

Suggest change
Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.

Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
Brave Little Toaster 10c, New slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
(04) Battering Ram 11d, Also called Evil Elliot
Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b, Steep Start to classic headwall
Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
Gangland 5.12b aka Excalibur
Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
(13) Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump
Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.

20 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
● Against Nature (aka Peter's Route)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
● Moat Jump
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
● Gangland
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 9
● Rogue Warrior
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 21
● Moat Pump
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 26
● Meltdown
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 24
● Siege Warfare
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 27
● Evil Alchemist
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
● Dragon's Lair
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
● Death Drives a Stick
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 25
● Loose Cannon
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
● The Catapult
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Against Nature (aka Peter's…
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Moat Jump
 81
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Gangland
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Rogue Warrior
 9
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
● Moat Pump
 21
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Meltdown
 26
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Siege Warfare
 24
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
● Evil Alchemist
 27
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Dragon's Lair
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Death Drives a Stick
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Loose Cannon
 25
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● The Catapult
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

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Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.
Routes on the Main Wall at The Dungeon.
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