Elevation: 6,219 ft
GPS: 35.869, -106.357 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,293 total · 106/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

The large overwhelming, overhung cliff on the left side of the canyon. This cliff steals the show with great, though difficult routes.

Getting There

Follow the directions to the Dungeon climbing area.

Routes

Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.

Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
Brave Little Toaster 10c, New slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
(04) Battering Ram 11d, Also called Evil Elliot
Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) 5.12b, Steep Start to classic headwall
Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
Gangland 5.12b aka Excalibur
Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
(13) Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump
Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.

00 Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
01 Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
02 Brave Little Toaster 10c, slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
03 Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
04 Evil Elliot 11d, Also called Battering Ram??
05 Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
06 Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
07 Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
08 Peter's Route 5.12b, aka Against Nature, Steep Start to classic headwall
09 Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
10 Excalibur 5.12c, aka Gangland
11 Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
12 The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
13 Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
14 Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
15 Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
16 Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump's anchors
17 Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much. Jun 11, 2008