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Routes in Trash Tower

Court Jester S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dunce Cap S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garbageboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash Compactor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trash Disco S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies Go Like This (aka Garbageman) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Luke Laeser
Page Views: 1,237 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jason Hundhausen on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Fun, pumpy route. Start on a low-angle slab into a roof. One hard move and you're to a big hold. Sustained to the anchors after that.

Location

On the opposite side of Trash Tower from Garbageboy. Up the middle of the face. The route to it's left is Trash Compactor.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2-bolt chained anchor

Photos

Luke Hetrick
Los Alamos
  5.11a
Luke Hetrick   Los Alamos
  5.11a
Top roped this route a while back and finally got around to leading it. Getting to the second bolt is strong and a bit sequency but still fun. I found the crux to actually be getting above the 3rd bolt as the hands were not as obvious. Took a fall there but then got my life figured out. After one hard move there, the rest to the anchors is definitely a grade easier. May 14, 2015
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
FA: Luke Laeser. May 14, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
"...I recommend not blowing the anchor clip as it could result in a tweaked ankle." Hehehe. Yeah, and a nice rope burn across my, I mean, one's achilles tendon too! Ouch! Aug 16, 2007
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
The route suggests 11b, but I think it is has one 11a move at the 1st bolt with some cruiser 5.10, but pumpy climbing afterwards to the anchors. I recommend not blowing the anchor clip as it could result in a tweaked ankle. Jul 8, 2007