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Routes in 45° Boulder

Beastmaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Tar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crimp Chimp S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragonslayer S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Honkey Serial Killer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Miss Jackson S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Moon Boot Mission S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Muscle Hustle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Perverse Traverse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tendon Bendin' S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown Link-up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Xena: Warrior Princess S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Ed Strang or Jean DeLataillade?, bolted by Luke Laeser
Page Views: 3,795 total, 28/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Powerful overhung climbing on good holds to a powerful 4th clip, a long draw is nice. Then a well defined crux to a rest, to some thin technical, difficult when pumped climbing to the anchors.

Location

The north arete that overhangs the stream. Between Honky Serial Killer and a short 5.12

Protection

5 bolts to anchor
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12d
I've climbed-- and usually fallen on-- Beastmaster dozens of times over the years. Eating my words from my post from 5 years ago... Yesterday I hit the boulder for the first time, just with my foot, it wasn't bad (no injury, no worse than normal falls) but surprised me. After clipping b3, I fell from the bump-move to the jug after you stick the crux, with a light belayer who I still trust as being fully competent. Hadn't ever heard of anyone else even touching the boulder in a fall, including when I witnessed someone botch the 3rd clip and a few falls off the slab at the top. So, have a good belayer, and it's better if they clip the rope through the a draw on the belay bolt, at least until the climber is on the slab.

A "modern-length" stick clip will allow you to hang the first 4 draws and/or pre-clip the 1st or 2nd bolt, if you're unsure about putting them up the old-fashioned way, but I find it less of a necessity on this climb compared to others at the Dungeon (e.g., Moat Pump, Tendon Bender, Against Nature, Evil Alchemist) which have beta-intensive starts and/or hard low clips. Sep 9, 2017
J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
J tot   Tempe, AZ
 
It is far easier to pull the crux and clip the 4th bolt from the jug to the left of it. The fall is clean as long as you have an attentive belayer. Aug 26, 2014
djkyote  
Thanks to whoever replaced the sketchy bolts at the anchor and replaced the carabiners. Oct 15, 2012
I think it is a funky route and is fine being funky. The crux jug is a bit crumbly. Is the norm to lower in and place the draws? The double draw worked fine but I hung it on rap otherwise I agree with dtp or I guess you could do the crux without clipping and clip off the jug. That would be fun. Sep 1, 2012
djkyote  
+1 for the double draw clipped before going into the crux. I'm not sure moving the bolt lower would be a good idea: you may fall close to the adjacent boulder when working the crux. Aug 30, 2012
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Back when I did this route I was unwilling to do the crux without having the 4th bolt clipped. That boulder just seemed too close. I clipped from the left hand undercling and it was hard, harder than the crux for me, As George mentions this is not a great idea. Now I know a few people who have waited until the jug after the crux. So I think there are three places from which to clip the bolt.

1. From jug after the crux (kinda scary but no ones hit yet that I know of).
2. From the last good hold on the rail system before entering the crux. (Requires a double draw.) If I was to do this route again this would be my strategy.
3. From the undercling or sidepull crux holds (probably the worst idea)

The bolt is probably in a good location for clipping from the jug, and could be lowered a little to clip from the last good hold on the rail easier.

I'd say leave it where it is, so you have the option of clipping above or below the crux.

I should add that the bolt placement isn't bad, it's just a sustained section of the climb where any clip is going to be hard, and a boulder nearby so you don't want to take a big fall. Aug 29, 2012
If George is projecting it and it is one of the harder lines he has tried than it is probably fine. My comment stems from the fact that DTP, a pretty strong lad, and the FA mentioned the problem of clipping. We have enough wacky routes in NM that if it is really a classic 12+ then it makes sense to make it as good as possible. Maybe DTP can chime in on if he thinks moving the bolt would solve the problem. I hope to try this route saturday and will post if it seems sketchy or not. Aug 29, 2012
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12d
I think the 4th bolt is in the ideal place if you clip it off the 1st jug after the crux; if it was much lower you would probably just clip it off the same holds used to clip the 3rd bolt, which is at waist level at that time and takes minimal effort. The best beta through this section is to do the crux move left first, bump the left to the jug, and clip off that, which seems reasonable once you get past thinking about the boulder behind you to the right. It's sort of tempting to try to clip off the undercling or sidepull-pinch before the crux, but that's hard- don't do that. I've fallen off the crux a lot of times, and the boulder doesn't seem too close any more. It was definitely scary for a while (Note: see my 9/2017 comment below). I've also skipped that bolt entirely, which was scarier in retrospect.
My opinion is this climb is really good, I'm pretty psyched about it. Starting to work on this climb inspired me to start to learn how to climb steep routes. Aug 28, 2012
Why not move the bolt and make a four star route? Aug 28, 2012
Super fun route if you don't fall while clipping and you have an excellent and attentive belayer. Bolted by Luke Laeser, although I'm pretty sure Peter Graham drilled the anchor holes. At the time Peter and I were bolting everything as fast as possible... and since I didn't have a job at the time I went to the Dungeon almost every day for a year or so... I don't recall who actually made the first ascent but I'd guess Ed or Jean. Sep 2, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Would be a 4 star route if clipping the 4th bolt wasn't just as hard as the crux. Be careful if you skip it because of the large boulder not far away. Oct 31, 2006