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Routes in 45° Boulder

Beastmaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Tar T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crimp Chimp S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragonslayer S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Honkey Serial Killer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Miss Jackson S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Moon Boot Mission S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Muscle Hustle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Perverse Traverse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tendon Bendin' S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown Link-up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Xena: Warrior Princess S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Peter Gram
Page Views: 573 total · 4/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is a very burly and continuous overhanging finger crack that takes good gear. It can be a little dirty especially after a rain. It is also a great little aid project A2, if you are not redpointing 5.12 trad. Finish at the anchors for Muscle Hustle.

Location

This route is located in between The Muscle Hustle and Tendon Bender.

Protection

Small to large stoppers, small to medium cams. and some quickdraws to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12c
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12c
I placed everything from a yellow Alien/TCU to a #1 camalot and a #3 camalot, though I think a #4 would have been better. So I would say doubles to a #1 camalot and a bigger piece. I tried to place one stopper and with the way the crack is formed it just seemed weird, maybe if you were aiding it.

I also finished on the Tendon Bender anchor as it seemed to be in a better position for rope drag and cleaning. Jul 2, 2012

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