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Routes in 45° Boulder

Beastmaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Tar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Crimp Chimp S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragonslayer S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Honkey Serial Killer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Little Evil (aka Slope a Dope) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Miss Jackson S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Moon Boot Mission S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Muscle Hustle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Perverse Traverse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tendon Bendin' S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown Link-up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Xena: Warrior Princess S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ed Strang (then Jean DeLataillade, then Paul May, all in the same day), bolted by Luke Laeser
Page Views: 1,442 total, 11/month
Shared By: Matthew NM on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Far left side of the 45deg boulder, right of that slab route no one seems to know the name of. Basically a very cool V7 boulder problem to a 5.11 slab to the chains. A truly proud ascent would be to (highball) boulder it which would require plenty of pads and spotters...and confidence

Protection

bolts, preclip the first 2 so you don't end up in the stream

Photos

MattL
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
MattL   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Those with small wingspans (including myself) definitely are going to fight for this one. I couldn't reach the "diving board" jug from the big undercling, so I sent using a kneescum and an awful undercling ten inches up and right from the big one. Felt about V8 for the beta I used. Jul 25, 2009
Matthew NM  
 
Eh, hard to grade I suppose, didnt' mean to offend. Really this is roped bouldering and at that it felt about V7. So maybe that's the better way to look at it instead of a 5.whatever grade. Regardless of the grade, it's a lot of fun and well worth doing. Apr 7, 2009
Jean  
consensus 12d, ha ha... hilarious. more like solid 13b. Jul 27, 2008
I bolted this route and Ed Strang made the first ascent, followed by Jean DeLataillade, and then Paul May all in the same day. It took me a few more months to beat it into submission. Nathaniel Walker later discovered that a good alternate finish (instead of climbing thin the slab after the crux) is to traverse to the right and finish on BeastMaster.

We all thought this route seemed like 13c at the time. 12d seems a bit ridiculous -- it's a pretty hard boulder problem. Jul 24, 2008