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Routes in Main Wall

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Castle Greyskull V4 6B
Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Death Drives a Stick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Alchemist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phrenology S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rogue Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Siege Warfare S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Matt Samet, bolted by Luke Laeser
Page Views: 2,695 total · 19/month
Shared By: Matthew NM on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Climb the steep underbelly of the low roof left of Siege Warfare's start up to a good kneebar and some thuggy moves out right onto the face. The difficulty eases up there and a few technical moves take you to the anchor. This is the farthest left route on the main wall's front face. There is a terrible 11-something to the left of this route around the corner, but you don't want to climb it...




I bolted this route after climbing the Evil Elliot route to the left. At the time we thought it was about 13a. Matt Samet made the first ascent of this one on his first trip to the dungeon and agreed on the grade, but he didn't use any knee bars. Jul 24, 2008
I'll second Luke's opinion on the rating. 12c, hummmm..... Who's the consensus? Jul 27, 2008
Matthew NM
Matthew NM  
Regarding the grade and the beta, I used what seemed like an obvious kneebar on my right leg to turn the "lip" of the bottom steep section which made a desparately powerful move for me something that I could almost no-hands in the middle of with the kneebar. With this beta the route went down 2nd try for me at a time when I was truly maxed climbing at .12+ leading me to believe that .13a couldn't be accurate.

I am certain that this route would feel much harder than .12c without this beta although I never did try to repeat it either way. Apr 7, 2009
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
As Matt states, I recall making important use of a kneebar below the roof; this definitely made the clip at the lip and the move out of the roof reasonable. That said, I always thought that the crux was the move that is shown in the picture above, i.e. a few moves above the roof. The body tension required for that move made me want to fill my Huggies. I have not been on this in years, but I remember both my partner and I agreeing that this was definitely 13a. Just my 2 cents. Jun 1, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
6 bolts (Though many will want to stick-clip or solo up to bolt 2, thus skipping the first- shared with Siege Warfare- to minimize drag and so your belayer has a chance of seeing what's going on).
With good beta, including 2 knee bars, I find this hard-to-read and confusing climb is more doable than Beastmaster (12c/d) but harder than Siege Warfare (12c/d), and way easier than Loose Cannon or the other true 13s I've tried here. More than 1 way to do the crux, so don't get discouraged. Jun 21, 2014

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