Elevation: 5,674 ft
GPS: 39.076, -108.685 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,471 total · 145/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Jul 18, 2006 with updates from Jesse Hill
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This area has climbing similar to Liberty Cap (on same cliff band). Many quality crack climbs of various grades are available. There are around 10-15 climbs.

Getting There

From I-70, take the Fruita exit 19 and head south on highway 340 (Broadway), over the Colorado River, past Rimrock, past the Monument Canyon Trailhead, and 0.8 miles more until you get to South Broadway.

Turn right on South Broadway. In about 0.6 of a mile the road will veer left and run alongside the monument. Very shortly after, about 0.2 of a mile on the right hand side, will be a break in the fence and about enough room to park two or three cars. This is the Gold Star Canyon trail head.

From the break in the fence take the trail that heads off left and hike for a little over a mile, staying down low near the fence, then look for a small game trail on the right that heads to the upper tier. It will be just before a big drainage of metamorphic rock. Walk up that and the cliffs will be on the right hand of the U-shaped/ bowl of sandstone wall.

21 Total Climbs

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Location: Tiara Rado Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Tiara Rado

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
 5
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss
Trad, Aid
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
 6
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman a…
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 38
Short, Cupped Hands
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Large Surprises
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Singles
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
First Impressions
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 42
100' Hands
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 22
Dirty Martini
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
Incredible Handcrack of the Monu…
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Disappear/Reappear
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
The Middle Finger - History is T…
Trad 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Soren Roof
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Flapper
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 Trad, Aid
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putter…
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Short, Cupped Hands
 38
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Large Surprises
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Singles
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
First Impressions
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
100' Hands
 42
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Dirty Martini
 22
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Incredible Handcrack of the…
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Disappear/Reappear
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Middle Finger - History…
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Soren Roof
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Flapper
 10
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Tiara Rado »

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Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Not much information on First ascent or names or grades so I am just using my best guess. Jul 18, 2006
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
How long does the approach take? Oct 21, 2009
Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
Approach takes about 15-20 minutes. It's really short, like under a mile, but very steep.

Also, once you cross the fence you want to follow the trail right until you are under a bit of the hill that is less steep than surrounding areas. This is just past the obvious large drainage. From here you follow a faint game/climbers trail up the hill and into a a small drainage. Sometimes the start of the trail has cairns, sometimes not. Oct 22, 2009
Airbiscuit
Grand Junction, Co
Airbiscuit   Grand Junction, Co
All drainages are legal access, sounds like the popularity is having the usual effects. I think this is a good one for the Coaliton to figure out. Mar 13, 2010
Thomas Haines
Fort Collins
Thomas Haines   Fort Collins
Yeah, I ran into the same deal and actually spoke with the lady that put some of those signs up. She was super friendly and took the time to pull out a map and tell me where the "actual" access point was. The whole time I was wondering how a hiker strolling through the drainage was more intrusive than me knocking on her door and going through all this trouble. Anyway, I would love to get to the bottom of all the access disputes that seem to be popping up for The Monument. This is now the third place in the last year Ihave ran into this for The Monument! May 22, 2010
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
The WCCC has been investigating this and has found that as far as the authorities, park and local, the trail is not to be used as an access point. Though originally all drainage coming from the monument were legal access points that were supposed to be upheld in perpetuity, the reality is that all the new subdivisions and building up against The Monument has created a land divisions that do not include these access points, so legally the landowners are told they have some sort of right to the land. Possibly this issue could be raised in court and perhaps something made of it.
However, I would suggest, and the WCCC will help to enforce the land owners' wishes. We will be making some signs with a map to put up at this access point to route people to the correct parking and trail head.
This is unfortunate as the hike is longer, and this will prove issue with access to other buttresses such as Supercrack of the Monument and the buttress adjacent to Tiara Rado.

Please do not use this trail head and help us keep civil relations with landowners. If anyone is to be blamed, it is possibly the City Planning or the authorities not wanting to peruse the issue and just ruling in favor of the landowner.
If you have any questions direct them to the WCCC email: Western_co_climbers@hotmail.com

-Jesse May 22, 2010
Randall Chapman
Grand Junction, CO
Randall Chapman   Grand Junction, CO
It seems as though it was other people hanging out and drinking back in this area that shut down this access point. According to Phil Akers, ranger at CNM, this was never a legal access point but this is something that is currently being debated. When I asked him why rangers have been telling people that this was a legal access he did not comment. Phil did say the monument has been working with Mesa County GIS to determine all of the legal access points to the monument and a map will be put out as soon as it is ready.

New directions:
From Broadway,
Turn onto South Broadway just west of 19 ½ road about 0.8 of a mile east on Broadway from the Monument Canyon trailhead.
About 0.6 of a mile the road will veer left and run alongside the monument,
Very shortly after, about 0.2 of a mile on the right hand side will be a break in the fence and about enough room to park two or three cars. This is the Gold Star Canyon trail head.
From the break in the fence take the trail that heads off left and hike for a little over a mile (basically till your back over by the old drainage access), then look for a small game trail on the right that heads to the upper tier. It will be just before a big drainage of metamorphic rock. Walk up that and the cliffs will be on the right hand of the U-shaped/ bowl of sandstone wall.

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Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Please approach this via Gold Star Canyon. Additionally, you can hike up Gold Star Canyon and walk the Monument trail heading east. Sep 10, 2010
This is a contender for worst described cliff on MP. Someone from GJ should approach an admin about a complete redo. The route descriptions start left to right, then when you get to the towers, things jump literally a eighth mile back to the left. A description: “this is 1/2 mile further.” I think if you are going that far, you’re at a new climbing zone.

Also, like Unaweep, every route practically just says “next to x y or z route”, but where’s that route?

Tiara Rado cliff should be its own area, then divide out those towers individually, or in clusters, but don’t say “Tower x is next to tower y” then “tower y is 40 meters from tower x”. See the prob?

Anyway, I made these same mistakes when MP started. I didn’t get it. It’s too bad we can’t wipe some of these areas described in 2006 and get them modernized.

For now, read all the descriptions, take notes, make a grid of which routes give clues to where other routes are, then flip that over, hold it up to the sun, and the location of the route you want will appear after a few minutes. Mar 31, 2018
Kayleen Castelli
Denver, CO
Kayleen Castelli   Denver, CO
Approach beta: from the break in the fence, take the trail that heads off left, and hike for a little over a mile, staying down low near the fence. Then look for a small game trail on the right that heads to the upper tier (you might pass a few game trails. The correct game trail has a cairn and human foot steps). It will be just before a big drainage of metamorphic rock. Walk up that and the cliffs will be on the right hand of the U-shaped/ bowl of sandstone wall. (After gaining elevation, you will T with/intersect a much bigger and more distinct trail -- this is the bench trail. Head left here to head towards 100' of Hands, Cupped Hands, etc.).

You can hike the bench trail back to Gold Star Canyon TH as well. It adds probably about half a mile, but the views are OUTSTANDING. Instead of being below the bench and wondering what's up there as you might on the entire hike in, you get to see everything. Oct 22, 2018
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Anybody have any opinions on some anchor rehab? There are many rusty SMCs that could get yanked or just backed up. I don’t mind one bit doing it one, and have some ASCA 1/2”, but wanted to get a feel for it first before I went drilling. Thanks. Mar 16, 2019
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
Would love to see bolt replacement happen, but under the current rules of The Monument, the bolting ban includes new and replacement bolts. Jesse Zacher and I have been working with The Monument to try to create rebolting opportunities and a better system for replacement. Sent you a PM, Jordan. Mar 17, 2019