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Routes in Tiara Rado

100' Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flapper T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Large Surprises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Singles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,748 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Jul 18, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Great climb! Start off with sandy/ ramping small hands/fingers. Hit the clean finger splitter, which is just past vertical, fire to the anchors. Pinches down at the top.

Location

Left about 200 feet from Cupped Hands around the corner and past the detached block. Up obvious, slightly overhanging splitter.

Protection

Finger sizes.

Photos

I was with Andy Petefish when he worked on and did this project in 1989. He told me he didn't have enough #0 TCUs or big enough testicles to continue upward and was unwilling to put his fingers in an acid bath to slim down the digits for a few more feet. There you have it!
Nice wall!
At my age now, I enjoy the loop from Mushroom Rock (Monument Canyon) via Lassoing the Shaky Steel Otto Pipes, a brief stop at Otto's Bath Tub, and then a quick descent down the Otto Carved Ladder (similar to the Ute Canyon/Liberty Cap Otto Staircase) in back of Gold Star Canyon from where this route is. Good job with the other climbs there.
Probably still a super nice four pitch route to be done there deeper in Gold Star Canyon that look like Lightning Bolt on North Six Shooter.
Have Fun!

"The unexamined life is not worth living" ~ Socrates Feb 18, 2017
I think it's actually just *%*&ing hard. Dec 27, 2010
chris righter
  5.12
chris righter  
  5.12
Fat fingers beware! Feb 24, 2010