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Routes in Tiara Rado

100' Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flapper T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Large Surprises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Singles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jason Huston
Page Views: 1,537 total, 16/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 27, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Short, thin, and surprisingly hard. The Second Coming climbs the thin finger crack right at the top of the trail where the approach meets the cliff. Begin up good fingers with a couple large, sandy feet. Soon the feet disappear, the crack thins, and a couple big moves between finger locks are needed. After passing two very thin sections finish up with a few more big moves with some feet. (This route was originally an aid route called "Fingers of Death.")

Location

Located 30' right of the Short, Cupped Hands crack, right where the approach trail meets the cliff.

Protection

Fingers and smaller. I placed two grey Camalots, two yellow Metolius, and one blue (0.3) Camalot. It also helps to have a blue TCU and a blue Alien to pull through the cruxes. (I doubled up on the first two placements, grey and yellow, as it is hard climbing and a blown piece would mean ground fall.)

Lower from chains with fixed carabiners.

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Great job, Jason! Is the route name a shout-out to Yeats? Feb 28, 2010