Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||2,006 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned on Mar 8, 2010|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is an absolute classic! Somewhat hidden as it is located about 5 minutes up-canyon from the main area, this route is well worth the walk. Start on a nice flat ledge (w/ plaque) and climb the thin (green Alien) crack, with feet, for 10 or so feet until you can lunge for a jug on the arete. Hit this, swing around the arete and mantle up, using a somewhat suspect block. Clip a bolt and begin to lieback like mad up the ever widening, tips to thin hands, crack. Rest as long as possible below the intimidating, 15' horizontal roof, and then monkey your way out with perfect hand jams. Round the lips and clip the anchors.
A couple notes - You will be able to lower down, but it would be extremely difficult to clean this route while lowering down, someone will need to follow it. Also, watch where your rope runs when you top out around the roof, the rope can push cams WAY back into the crack.