Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: B
Page Views: 3,654 total · 20/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 8, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is an absolute classic! Somewhat hidden as it is located about 5 minutes up-canyon from the main area, this route is well worth the walk. Start on a nice flat ledge (w/ plaque) and climb the thin (green Alien) crack, with feet, for 10 or so feet until you can lunge for a jug on the arete. Hit this, swing around the arete and mantle up, using a somewhat suspect block. Clip a bolt and begin to lieback like mad up the ever widening, tips to thin hands, crack. Rest as long as possible below the intimidating, 15' horizontal roof, and then monkey your way out with perfect hand jams. Round the lips and clip the anchors.

A couple notes - You will be able to lower down, but it would be extremely difficult to clean this route while lowering down, someone will need to follow it. Also, watch where your rope runs when you top out around the roof, the rope can push cams WAY back into the crack.

Location Suggest change

This route is about 5 minutes up-canyon (west) from Flapper. It will be obvious, though you won't be able to see it until you are at the base.

Protection Suggest change

3 tips sizes (blue TCU/green Alien/blue BD), one of everything from grey Camalot to red Camalot (a #2 Friend is nice, too), 2 or 3 gold Camalots, 1 #3 Camalot, and one draw. Chains at the anchor.

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