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Routes in Tiara Rado

100' Hands T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flapper T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Large Surprises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Singles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 244 total · 6/month
Shared By: Paul S on Jan 28, 2015
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

With this one you get pretty much 250' of climbing the wider sizes, but it's good fun climbing for the most part.

P1: Start below the large chimney/gash on the north (maybe nw?) face. Some dirty chinle climbing past an awkward move gets you to the wingate. A fun steep OW on good rock is the rest of this short pitch. 5.10, belay off of finger sized gear once at a stance inside the chimney.

P2: Go to the back of the chimney and squirm on up. A thin crack can be used for protection. It starts as tips, and gradually widens to OW. Once you start narrowing the top of the chimney, stem deeper into it until you can move up to a nice ledge below Agustina's Tower. Belay off of #5 cams. 5.7

P3: Move the belay up about 30' until below the obvious, dirty OW. Starts off dirty, but gets better. At the start you can protect with some hand and fist sized pieces, save the big gear for higher up. Once above the junky section, the route only protects with tipped out #6's, big bros, or your best option, a 9" valley giant to bump up with you as you go. 5.10

From the top, do a double rope rap to the top of P2. Then hop over the chimney you climbed up for P2 and find another anchor. From this anchor a single rope rappel gets you to the ground.

Location

Agustina's is located directly in front of Eagle Tower.

Protection

A single rack from small to big, then the extra big. A 9" valley giant was key, a #4 bigbro, and several #6 cams. 2 60 m ropes

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