Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Routes in Tiara Rado
|100' Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Flapper T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1|
|Large Surprises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1|
|Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Singles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||171 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Paul S on Jan 28, 2015|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the tower in front of Agustina's and Eagle Tower, it's easily identified with an arch like feature on its backside.
P1 & 2, climb the same 1st 2 pitches of Agustina's. Move belay 30' up using the same belay as you would for the last pitch on Agustina's.
P3 Squeeze up the arch, avoiding some big loose blocks. You're aiming for an obvious little slot that you can get pro in, it's a bit run out getting there. Once there, slam in a #4 and/or a #5 cam and pendulum left to the junky crack. The quality of it improves, but after the bulge it takes a turn for the worse. The crack/seam traverses left and the upper portion of the crack is very hollow. When I weighted the first cam I placed sand came pouring out. It's spooky. If I were to do this again I think I would bring some hooks and use those instead of having to deal with that hollow section again. After this, some fixed protection leads to a mantel to the top.
This route really is probably only C2, but I was a little more nervous than I typically get at this grade..YMMV.
LocationRight in front of Eagle Tower and Agustina's. The route climbs the big gash up to the notch between Agustina's and Virga and then climbs the backside of the tower.
- No Photos -