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Routes in Tiara Rado
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100' Hands T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Double Fist Offwidth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flapper T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Large Surprises T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mike's Brother Kenyon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Singles T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Squeeze Me Macaroni T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 |
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Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Tunnel Vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown, OW/Squeeze T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13 |
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Wide Inside T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Joe Prescott and Joe Cole, 2000? FFA: Jason Huston |
| Page Views: | 4,038 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Nov 7, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This amazing splitter is surely one of the best pitches in The Monument. Formerly an aid route, this splitter now goes free and should rank high on any desert crack climber's to-do list. The route splits an otherwise blank, streaked wall right in the middle of the Tiaro Rado climbing area and consists of 3 cruxes.
To begin, climb up some Chinle to the roof, plug in a couple pieces from a stance here and get ready. Tips locks and a couple crimps lead over the roof (protect this section with a #1 TCU as a green Alien is too big), make a desperate stab to another tips lock and a couple more moves lead to good fingers. Unfortunately, the good fingers are short lived; baggy fingers lead to ring locks up a slightly overhanging and slightly leaning crux. Push through the remaining ring locks and savor a couple perfect hand jam pods. Rest in these and prepare for the upcoming finish - 0.5s that slowly narrow down to tips. A couple final, big moves between tips locks lead over the mini-roof and to the anchors.
This route was first ascended by Joe Prescott and Joe Cole as presumably an aid route and was called "Student Aid", documented in Desert Rock III.
To begin, climb up some Chinle to the roof, plug in a couple pieces from a stance here and get ready. Tips locks and a couple crimps lead over the roof (protect this section with a #1 TCU as a green Alien is too big), make a desperate stab to another tips lock and a couple more moves lead to good fingers. Unfortunately, the good fingers are short lived; baggy fingers lead to ring locks up a slightly overhanging and slightly leaning crux. Push through the remaining ring locks and savor a couple perfect hand jam pods. Rest in these and prepare for the upcoming finish - 0.5s that slowly narrow down to tips. A couple final, big moves between tips locks lead over the mini-roof and to the anchors.
This route was first ascended by Joe Prescott and Joe Cole as presumably an aid route and was called "Student Aid", documented in Desert Rock III.
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