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Routes in Tiara Rado

100' Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flapper T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Large Surprises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Singles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Jason Huston
Page Views: 2,138 total · 21/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 7, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This amazing splitter is surely one of the best pitches in The Monument. Formerly an aid route, this splitter now goes free and should rank high on any desert crack climber's to-do list. The route splits an otherwise blank, streaked wall right in the middle of the Tiaro Rado climbing area and consists of 3 cruxes.

To begin, climb up some Chinle to the roof, plug in a couple pieces from a stance here and get ready. Tips locks and a couple crimps lead over the roof (protect this section with a #1 TCU as a green Alien is too big), make a desperate stab to another tips lock and a couple more moves lead to good fingers. Unfortunately, the good fingers are short lived; baggy fingers lead to ring locks up a slightly overhanging and slightly leaning crux. Push through the remaining ring locks and savor a couple perfect hand jam pods. Rest in these and prepare for the upcoming finish - 0.5s that slowly narrow down to tips. A couple final, big moves between tips locks lead over the mini-roof and to the anchors.

Location

This splitter should be fairly obvious, climbing a beautiful, streaked wall approximately 100' right of where the trail meets the cliff.

Protection

Blue TCUs through #0.75s with one #2 Camalot. I found one blue TCU to be mandatory as the crack was too thin for a green Alien or blue BD over the roof. The anchors have chains and biners. Bring a tooth brush as this can get a bit dirty after a heavy rain.

Photos

dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
This route should have more stars. I won't rate this climb, since I did not send it, but it's pretty amazing. Apr 8, 2013
Rschap
Grand Junction, CO
Rschap   Grand Junction, CO
Is that the Student Aid route that’s listed in Desert Rock III? Nice work on freeing it if it is (well even if it’s not) that line looked hard. Dec 29, 2009
Nice job, Jason! Looks awesome! Nov 13, 2009
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Nice!!! Nov 9, 2009
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
Nice Send! Nov 9, 2009
Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
Nice dude! I've looked at this thing many times and dreamt of being that strong. This is probably the hardest free route in Junction. Nov 8, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Another amazing send by the Famous Huston! Nice work, Jason. Nov 8, 2009
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
Nice work, Jason. Never climbed in the Monument, but this thing sounds amazing! Inmight have to make a trip soon.... Nov 7, 2009