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Routes in Tiara Rado

100' Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flapper T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Large Surprises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Singles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 160 ft, Grade III
FA: Cameron Burns, Jesse Harvey, 20-21 June 1998.
Page Views: 1,831 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 8, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Marital Bliss climbs Jolly Tower.

Part 1: The route starts on the west side of the tower and climbs to the left of a HUGE flake. Fraid climb over manky rock to get into a clean crack. Climb this crack until you get to another section of loose rock, get out of your aiders and free climb by it, to a good, hand-sized crack, and a good ledge on top of the flake. You can stop here, but the anchor would be crap and it is a bolt ladder to the top.

Part 2: Follow the bolts and pins to the summit. There were 6 holes, but we left our pins in them, so it should be a straight up bolt ladder.

The first part of this pitch will go free but what is the point when you have to climb a bolt ladder for the second half of the pitch?

Location

Jolly Tower is a semi-detached tower about 300 yards Northeast of Oompah Tower, and 500 yards west of Terra Tower (aka Liberty Cap Tower).

Protection

Doubles from green Alien to new #4 Camalot, I placed a new #5, but you could get away without it, tie offs for a few pins. Some cord to replace the anchors. 2 ropes for the rappel.
Richard C Sims
Centennial
Richard C Sims   Centennial
Use the chimney or be (afraid) aware of the loose blocks you will encounter.
After moving past some blocks easily pulled off by an outward pull. They are still there. I was jamming with my right hand moving left to get away from the loose crap there was a shift, a blur, and a sensation of a lot of material moving.
I was moving and yelling watch out fast and only felt the rocks go.
One rock I found was easily 100 pounds. The bigger rock went all the way down into the canyon.
My partner jumped up hill and only was pelted by small stuff. I only received a 2X4 inch scrape on my arm and a bruised shoulder.

Side note all the pins are in but upside down. I did not change them as I am not sure what would do more damage.
That seems to me they would channel water and snow back into the hole causing damage.
Being up side down the sharp edge is up making tying them off dubious at best.
All the pins are in half way at best. I tapped the first one with my hammer and it was sound. So, I put my hammer away as I only brought it to replace any missing pins.
They are solid and I was not worried.
All the hangers on the bolts were loose I turned the nuts tight by hand; once again I was not worried on a bolt ladder.

Jesse, thanks for info and we took out the rest of the trash we found on the back of OMP Tower.

Matt, thank you for trail beta we walked out the other way to check it out. Glad we did not approach using same trail. May 5, 2008
Ben Kiessel  
 
We're mad? You did the FA! And Cam, I think you signed up long ago. Apr 16, 2008
My lord, this heap got a second ascent?
Are you people mad?
Where do I sign up?
I think I belong..... Apr 14, 2008
Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
The chimney is actually on the same, west, side of the tower, you just climb up the other side of the large flake.

The dihedral just to the right is great 5.11- about. Fingers through tight hands and a final big hands roof.

The splitter further to the right is good. Lots of wide hands, and maybe even fists depending on your hand size. 5.10+ about, a 70m rope just gets you down.

No idea on the FAs. But the anchors indicate it might be the same person who did some of the more recent development at the Tiara Rado crag. Jan 8, 2008
Ben Kiessel  
 
Jesse- do you know what the route in the corner five feet to the right of Jolly Tower is? What about the beautiful straight in splitter about 100 feet right of Jolly?
-Ben Nov 9, 2007
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
If you go to the east side you can just climb the chimney to get to the ledge and start the bolt ladder. The chimney is sandy but better than the west side. Nov 8, 2007