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Routes in Tiara Rado

100' Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flapper T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Large Surprises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Singles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,052 total, 48/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Jun 9, 2014
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is of better quality than the Super Crack of the Monument. It has better stone and is longer. Rather than a hand crack, it sports every size from tight hands to cups, [115]'. This is well worth the hike across the gully from Tiara Rado. It gets wider at the top!

Per Paul S: P2 starts out with a few bulges with that horrid size: too tight for a fist but too wide for a secure hand jam on good rock. After that the difficulty eases, but the rock takes a turn for the worse. There's some big, potentially dangerous chunks of rock that you need to climb around. The top out moves are heads up too. Super soft rock with bad fall potential. I delicately yarded on micro cams to get past that section. A single 70m rope gets you back to the ground in 2 raps.

Location

This route is in between Jolly Tower and Oompah Tower. It is roughly 200 feet right of Jolly Kicks.

Protection

Doubles to triples of #1-#3 with single set from fingers up. There are double anchors at the top.

Photos

Furthermore  
 
A 60m will NOT reach. This climb is more like 110-115 feet not 100 feet (the app didn't have Chalk's updated comment).

Also, take 4-6 #3s and a couple #4s. I took the recommended triple rack and a single 60m, and it was quite uncomfortable and dangerous. You would be foolish to take only a double rack.... Nov 15, 2017
Great crack route though I had to bail off two cams about 3/4 of the way up the 1st money pitch, because I only had a 60m rope. I believe this route should be done with a 70m rope or two 60m ropes to ensure you get to the ground. The crux seems overcoming the small roof in the first 30' of the climb. Looking forward to going back this Friday with a 70m to retrieve my two cams and climb this stellar crack completely. Sep 26, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Pretty good climbing, but fairly 'blah' rock. Even my 120lb partner sent down a lot of sand and pebbles from crack edges. The rock in this area is desert rat quality, overall.
Take several of each 2-3.5" cams and a few #4s if you want consistently good gear. May 30, 2017
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
Paul, your comment makes me really want to do the second pitch. Sounds awesome! Aug 4, 2015
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
There's a second pitch to this climb that goes to the top of the tower. P2 starts out with a few bulges with that horrid size: too tight for a fist but too wide for a secure hand jam on good rock. After that the difficulty eases, but the rock takes a turn for the worse. There's some big, potentially dangerous chunks of rock that you need to climb around. The top out moves are heads up too. Super soft rock with bad fall potential. I delicately yarded on micro cams to get past that section. A single 70 m rope gets you back to the ground in 2 raps. Jun 9, 2014