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Routes in Tiara Rado

100' Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flapper T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Large Surprises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Singles T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 240 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Cameron Burns, Jonathan Butler and Jesse Harvey- August 1, 1998
Page Views: 2,175 total, 18/month
Shared By: Matt Pickren on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route climbs the northwest face of Oompah Tower. Oompah is about 1/2 of a mile beyond Liberty Cap in Tiara Rado, 200 meters past Jolly Tower.

Pitch 1- climb very loose, unprotectable 5.6 for 20 feet aiming for a fixed pin near a 0.75 crack. Follow the crack to a ledge in a corner. Continue up double 4 inch cracks in a left facing corner until it is possible to reach left to a pin. Traverse left on a pin and a bolt to another crack. This crack leads to a double anchor belay in an uncomfortable alcove. This pitch could be completely free climbed with some work except for the fixed traverse. (120 feet)

Pitch 2- Start by reaching left 2 meters to a pin in a shallow, right-facing corner. Continue up a crack in the corner to a large ledge with loose rocks and two bolts. (30 feet)

Pitch 3- Leave the belay by following a stud ladder (5-6 studs) with nuts on the studs. There are 2 pins mixed in. After the last stud, grovel left into a less than vertical 5.9 offwidth/ tight chimney. Aim for a randomly placed fixed pin, and then climb up to the notch with a huge flat ledge. Aid off one more pin and mantle onto a shoulder which leads to the summit. (90 feet)

Location

Descent- rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Then rappel from here to the ground with double ropes.

Protection

Double set of cams from yellow Alien to #5. 1 #5 is easily sufficient. Double #4s are mandatory. Stoppers for the stud ladder as you can use them for protection with nuts screwed down tight by hand. One may want a butterfly hanger or two as the nuts may eventually vanish. 4 quickdraws.
Double 60m ropes get you to the ground in 1 rappel from the top.

The worst part of the climb is the first 15 feet in the chossy rock. Moreover, the pin is missing at the start of the second pitch but can easily be climbed without.

Fun adventure climbing on a neat tower. Nov 15, 2017
Airbiscuit
  5.8 C1
Airbiscuit  
  5.8 C1
Totally blew past the 1st anchor no problem. I went straight up instead of moving left into the other crack system, you can traverse the ledge up top pretty easy. Also a single 70m gets you to the ground from the 2nd belay but not with much to spare. Cruiser and fun, if this thing wasn't tucked so far back in there, it would see a lot more traffic. Oct 24, 2012
Peter Blank
Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Peter Blank   Grand Junction, Colorado
 
10.9.12
7th ascent.
Get some! Oct 9, 2012
PG13? where was the scary stuff?
Also when we were climbing linking pitch 1 and 2 seemed like it would have been easy.

ascenders rule,
Ben Nov 15, 2007