Type: Trad, Aid, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Cameron Burns, Jonathan Butler and Jesse Harvey- August 1, 1998
Page Views: 3,024 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matt Pickren on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque

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Description

This route climbs the northwest face of Oompah Tower. Oompah is about 1/2 of a mile beyond Liberty Cap in Tiara Rado, 200 meters past Jolly Tower.

Pitch 1- climb very loose, unprotectable 5.6 for 20 feet aiming for a fixed pin near a 0.75 crack. Follow the crack to a ledge in a corner. Continue up double 4 inch cracks in a left facing corner until it is possible to reach left to a pin. Traverse left on a pin and a bolt to another crack. This crack leads to a double anchor belay in an uncomfortable alcove. This pitch could be completely free climbed with some work except for the fixed traverse. (120 feet)

Pitch 2- Start by reaching left 2 meters to a pin in a shallow, right-facing corner. Continue up a crack in the corner to a large ledge with loose rocks and two bolts. (30 feet)

Pitch 3- Leave the belay by following a stud ladder (5-6 studs) with nuts on the studs. There are 2 pins mixed in. After the last stud, grovel left into a less than vertical 5.9 offwidth/ tight chimney. Aim for a randomly placed fixed pin, and then climb up to the notch with a huge flat ledge. Aid off one more pin and mantle onto a shoulder which leads to the summit. (90 feet)

Location

Descent- rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Then rappel from here to the ground with double ropes.

Protection

Double set of cams from yellow Alien to #5. 1 #5 is easily sufficient. Double #4s are mandatory. Stoppers for the stud ladder as you can use them for protection with nuts screwed down tight by hand. One may want a butterfly hanger or two as the nuts may eventually vanish. 4 quickdraws.

Photos