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Areas in Virgin Islands Area

Diamond Clump 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Human Sacrifice Boulder 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lechlinski Crack Formation 5 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Little Europe 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Perpetual Motion Wall 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Ski Slope, The 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Star Wars Rock 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Volcano Boulder 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Volcano Vicinity 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Volcano, The 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 33.946, -116.077 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,858 total · 105/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 29, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The Virgin Islands, despite it's ease of accessibilty, remains one of the quieter and less frequented climbing areas in the Park. The crowds are fewer here and the solitude, especially away from the road, is quite noticable. The first documented climbing was done here in the early 1980's by the ubiquitous Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas who climbed the bulk of the best crack lines. Since then a number of quality crack and face climbs have been done with limited development continuing to this day.

Some of the recommended cracks here include the fairly enjoyable wide to hands crack of Thumbs Down Left (5.9), Light Sabre (5.10b) with it's clean corner and exposed crack higher, Between a Rock and a Hard Place (5.10b) for those seeking a full body workout, Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market (5.10d) a tricky thin crack, Perpetual Motion (5.10d) a steep hand crack, Centurion (5.10d) for those whose like it wide and Human Sacrifice (5.11c) for those who want to step it up a notch.

A sampling of recommended face routes include the relatively unknown Hodad Arete (5.10b), the sandbagged Raker's Blaring Hat Rack (5.10d) which climbs a free-standing spire, Hot Lava (5.11a) with it's delicate arete moves, the somewhat obscure Walking on the Moon (5.12a), Rapture of the Steep (5.12b) with it's steep face goodness, the overhanging arete of Dictators of Anarchy (5.12c) and the continuously difficult and excellent New World Order (5.13b A0).

Getting There

The Virgin Isles are reached by drving down the Geology Tour Road about 4.2 miles and parking in any of several pullouts along the side of the road. The formations are easily visible from the road and hiking times vary from 5-20 minutes with some scrambling typical. Take care if driving a 2WD vehicle to park pointing downhill. Should you get stuck you can continue driving further down the road to a turnabout at Squaw Tank (1.1 miles down the road) which has a large area suitable for turning around.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Virgin Islands Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keith's Ripped Back
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lechlinski Cracks
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peter Meter
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On Cider
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Light Sabre
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Between a Rock and a Hard Place
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waugh Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Perpetual Motion
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Centurion
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walking on the Moon
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Keith's Ripped Back Lechlinski Crack Formation 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lechlinski Cracks Lechlinski Crack Formation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Peter Meter Little Europe 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
On Cider Little Europe 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Light Sabre Star Wars Rock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Between a Rock and a Hard P… Star Wars Rock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Knack Perpetual Motion Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Waugh Crack Lechlinski Crack Formation 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Perpetual Motion Perpetual Motion Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market Star Wars Rock 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Centurion Diamond Clump > Centurion 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Walking on the Moon Star Wars Rock 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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