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Routes in Perpetual Motion Wall

Cyclotron T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Georgia O'Keefe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hoser T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Knack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lean Two T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perpetual Motion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Archimedes Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soapy Tit Wank T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Hand Fist Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 7,658 total, 41/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 12, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An absolutely classic overhanging hand crack. You'll wish it were three times as long. Toward the right side of the Perpetual Motion Wall two cracks form a giant "V". The left crack is Perpetual Motion, the right is Gross Chimney. A bulging thin hands bit at the start gets the crux out of the way early. Plug perfect hands (and occasional cams) up the overhanging wall while the pump clock ticks away. It widens just a bit at the top, but that means you're almost done with it. The view from the top is awesome, and you probably won't find a line at the base.

Protection

Cams in the handjam range (2, 2.5, 3), plus something for the anchor up top.
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
Good place to climb when the wind is blowing hard... Dec 19, 2015
Sean
Oak Park, CA
 
Sean   Oak Park, CA
 
the common approach is via a steep upscramble starting across from Between A Rock And A Hard Place and wrapping up and ccw to the backside where PM is (FYI, the top of the easy downclimb crack for the PM walkoff is visible from the ground on this side). also possible to go cw via the Knick & Knack corridor, if doing those routes as well along the way, but would involve much groveling through talus tunnels and squeeze slots. the most direct and easiest way to PM is up a broad rock ramp on the SE side of the PM talus clump actually, aiming diagonally to climber's left and up to PM without veering toward the K&K corridor. this is visible from up at PM, but hard to spot at ground level Mar 8, 2015
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
Very tough start for me. Also a lot of bird poop at the beginning. Once through the start up higher got tough, I went to plug in a #3 and I was getting pumped and the cable came off the clip on the cam I cursed. I quickly grabbed a #2 cam which was a little to small,it worked I clipped in and then fell off cam held. I look down at my friend, and told him man you need to fix your cam and then laughed. What a day that was. It was my 10 year anniversary climbing at Joshua Tree. Feb 2007 Feb 27, 2008
Manjushri
  5.10d
Manjushri  
  5.10d
I found this to be quite slimy toward the bottom, especially through the crux. Not sure if the culprit is pasted chalk, some kind of excrement or a combination of both (much poo is present at the base of the cracks here). The condition detracted somewhat from the climbing, but it is still an awesome splitter. Oct 29, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10d
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10d
It is a gorgeous splitter, but when we were there (circa 1997) the bottom section was full of guano. Short, even for J-Tree Jan 1, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c/d
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10c/d
As I recall, you can take the bite out of the crux by fist jamming the slot that makes up the thin hands section.... if you have a 4" fist that is. Nov 2, 2006
namascar
  5.10d
namascar  
  5.10d
Steep, thin hands. UFF!! However, if you have problems in the thin hands section (like me), there is a side pull and an edge on the left of the crack. Nov 15, 2004
Ben Craft
  5.10d
Ben Craft  
  5.10d
I wish there was more hand jam cracks like this in the park.

Watch out for birds if you do this in the evening. Apr 1, 2003