Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Centurion

Centurion T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas, 1982
Page Views: 1,869 total, 16/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Feb 19, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

When someone says "striking line" this route could be the definition. A summit block split by an ever widening crack with sky on both sides.
The business starts pretty early as the initial moves to get above the roof are the crux. Once you are established in the crack there is some nice OW to the summit, thankfully with a secure leg and knee in most of the way.

Location

This route is the obvious crack that splits the "Centurion" block on the Diamond Clump. If you are approaching the very popular routes on Star Wars Rock, the Diamond Clump will be visible from the road about 400yds south, and Centurion is the most obvious line on the SW face. Scramble up to the base, and maybe take your belayer with you, though you can belay from the base of the slabby approach to the business section.

Protection

Under the roof will take something in the 2.5" range to protect the opening moves to get over to and under the wide section. Start by plugging a 4" cam under the roof and continue on up through the sizes as you go, all the way to #6 Wild Country cams and beyond if you need more. There are a few bolts spread around on the summit for an anchor and rappel.

He is a Quicktime Movie of the action: WideFetish.com movie
Richard Shore
  5.10d
Richard Shore  
  5.10d
Still a bit gritty, and probably doesn't get the traffic it deserves. Very, very physical. Maybe OW climbing just isn't my thing. My left knee won't forget this climb anytime soon!

Added some new tat to the rap slings on the summit 11/20/11. These bolts could really benefit from some added chain and rap rings for longevity. Nov 20, 2011
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.10d PG13
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.10d PG13
Watch your rope as you do the layback moves into the offwidth, it's really easy to get your rope caught under the roof and pretty much halt any upward progress.

Sling all your pro long and set it deep. I didn't...and halfway up, all my cams (#4-#6 BD) got pulled sideways by my rope. Holy cow.

One last thing: If you climb this, please bring some anchor material. That is, bring a long piece (10') of webbing/cordalette and a couple rings to replace the rolled aluminum ones that are up there. Feb 9, 2010