Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Konrad Hughen, Alan Bell, Vaino Kodas, 1982
Page Views: 1,644 total · 8/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 12, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Description

This is the leftmost route on Star Wars rock. Start in a continuous crack up to the left side of a terrace left of Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market and Light Sabre. Move right on the terrace, then head up the hand crack in the dihedral to the summit. If you're mystified by the crux beta, just remember the route name. It might not be creative, but it is descriptive.

Protection

Standard trad rack.

Photos

Apparently, Thumbs down left is also instructions on how to climb the route, not just it's name.

-Munge Aug 8, 2002
namascar
  5.9+
namascar  
  5.9+
I think I have an issue with Josh's 5.9. They are stout! Nov 15, 2004
Bo Johnston
  5.10a
Bo Johnston  
  5.10a
I'll go as far as saying it is 9+/10a. The first 15 feet are awkward and the jamming above made me wish I taped up. Ok climb after Light Sabre. Oct 10, 2005
Nick Wilder
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Nick Wilder   Boulder, CO  
  5.9+
The first 30 feet consist of a grunty chimney/offwidth. Possible to get a #4 Camalot about halfway up, but not much else. The top half is a short but decent hand crack in a corner so tight its a bit awkward, taking as many #1 and #2 Camalots as you want. Not a destination... Nov 13, 2005
Jorge
  5.9
Jorge  
  5.9
I thought it was a semi-soft 5.9, sure the bottom is kinda awkward but the top portion was great hands all the way. Jan 20, 2006
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Thumbs down just ain't the route name. OK to do if you are here and there are 40 parties of 5 on Light Sabre. The term "grainy pile" comes to mind..... Feb 18, 2007
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
Good warm up climb, befroe doing Light sabre. Then Cedrix deep sea market. Did Cedrix on Tr. I will return this year 2008 to lead it. The gear looks tricky. Feb 27, 2008
Daniel Cohn  
 
I am not sure why some people gave this a bomb. The bottom is a little grainy, but I thought it protected well and was a decent route. Apr 27, 2010
Ryan Bracci
San Juan Capistrano, CA
  5.9
Ryan Bracci   San Juan Capistrano, CA
  5.9
The first section is kind of grovely. A #3 does fit higher up in a restriction and is what I used but if you really want to sew it up bring a #4. Dec 30, 2013
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
thumbs down left only if you insist on ignoring the unique, very enjoyable, and much easier cross-arms handjamming, with both thumbs up. very cool Jan 1, 2014
BrettAtBond
  5.9-
BrettAtBond  
  5.9-
Fun climbing. Only detractors are the route being split by a large ledge and that the top lowers in angle as soon as you really start cruising up.

Found the climbing to be pretty straight forward for 5.9 by JTree standards. Jan 11, 2016
Matt Hagny
  5.10a
Matt Hagny  
  5.10a
It's certainly worth doing regardless. Interesting parallel cracks and other unusual features. Burly in places. And insecure -- was happy to be following it. Nov 20, 2017