Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Toivo Kodas, Alan Bell, 1982
Page Views: 3,744 total · 18/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 12, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Description

Cedric's follows the discontinuous right-slanting cracks just left of Light Sabre. Where the name came from is a mystery to me. Expect a mix of side-pulls and face holds with your jams for the bottom section. At the top, the crack fades into the face so you must smear to the summit. It's more technical and devious than Light Sabre, and a bit more work to set the gear, but overall it's a worthy pitch. If it seems a little out of your league, run up Thumbs Down Left or Light Sabre and string a top-rope - you'll be glad you did.

Protection

Standard trad rack, with extras in the .75 to 1.5 range.

Photos

this route is really good all the pro you place is absolutely bomber, like alan said it is easily top roped off of the anchors on light saber. Sep 7, 2003
David Evans
  5.10d
David Evans  
  5.10d
High quality and fairly continuous, I was pumped for the rest of the day. Feb 11, 2005
Josh Beck
  5.10d
Josh Beck  
  5.10d
I thought this route was more engaging and more enjoyable than Lightsaber. Definitely quite a bit longer as well which adds value! Mar 28, 2005
tony grice  
 
cool climb if yer out there. 10.d is fair. good pro Feb 13, 2006
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.10+
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.10+
Slightly better than good... unless it is during hot weather... this thing cooks! Add a few letter grades if the temp is warm. Feb 18, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Engaging climbing, well worth doing. The cruxes are more insecure than hard. Afterwards, it's easier climbing until the crack runs out and it's either a friction slab straight up, or a move left into a left trending, almost horizontal crack system (everyone seems to go left). Mostly fingers, takes good pro, although it may be awkward or strenous to place. You could always TR off the fixed anchor near the top of Light Sabre. Mar 29, 2007
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
Best climb on the formation! Nov 23, 2008
Richard Shore
  5.10d
Richard Shore  
  5.10d
Absolute pumpfest! Great gear, but strenuous to place. My arms were jacked for hours afterwards. Nov 20, 2011
Matt Hagny
  5.10d
Matt Hagny  
  5.10d
Definitely agree on being insecure while placing gear -- the jams are pretty bad most of the way. Very sustained. Dec 3, 2018