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> Star Wars Rock
Between a Rock and a Hard Place
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 47
votes
Routes in Star Wars Rock
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Between a Rock and a Hard Place T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dragon Scales TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lemming, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Light Sabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Through the Hole and Up The Wall T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Thumbs Down Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Walking on the Moon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 33.95018, -116.07135 |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, Toivo Kodas, and Vaino Kodas, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 8,742 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Will S on Feb 18, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This leaning, almost bombay squeeze chimney is great entertainment for climbers and spectators alike.
If you go with the proper side in, the crux is a few feet below where it turns the lip onto the vertical face. Good squeeze technique will see you through the crux, then you're into the fists and soon onto the face where the crack is low angle & easy.
If setting a TR on this, be prepared with a good length of static line, you'll want to extend the anchor quite a ways below the top due to a rope pinching chockstone in the crack.
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