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Routes in Star Wars Rock

Between a Rock and a Hard Place T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Light Sabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Through the Hole and Up The Wall T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Thumbs Down Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking on the Moon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, Toivo Kodas, and Vaino Kodas, 1981
Page Views: 5,379 total · 39/month
Shared By: Will S on Feb 18, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

This leaning, almost bombay squeeze chimney is great entertainment for climbers and spectators alike. If you go with the proper side in, the crux is a few feet below where it turns the lip onto the vertical face. Good squeeze technique will see you through the crux, then you're into the fists and soon onto the face where the crack is low angle & easy. If setting a TR on this, be prepared with a good length of static line, you'll want to extend the anchor quite a ways below the top due to a rope pinching chockstone in the crack.

Location [Suggest Change]

About 60' right and downhill of Light Sabre, on the next large boulder. The obvious right angling squeeze chimney in a dihedral.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Big and bigger.
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Absolutely classic squeeze chimney, and a must do if you're in the area for Light Sabre etc. Five stars if it was twice as long. So, which side in? You'll figure it out. Go get on it, this thing is GOOD! Feb 18, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
This thing *is* fantastic! A must do for any wide fiend. Feb 18, 2007
Ryan Kelly
work.
Ryan Kelly   work.
Well I'm impressed, just looking at this thing made me hurt. 10b? Guess you can label me just another gym climber. Nov 17, 2008
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
This thing is classic! Why no stars in the Vogel guide? Nov 23, 2008
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
The Vogel guide doesn't give Centurion any stars either...maybe he just doesn't like the Wide.

But yes. This is one of the best squeeze chimneys I have ever climbed...I spent about 10 minutes at the exit move trying to find a way to clamber out... Feb 9, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Classy wide crack! Nov 26, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Is it Indian? Jan 16, 2014
weisseseis  
 
I would bring large nuts and/or cams from .5-1" for an anchor in the horizontal crack at the top. Plus a long cord if you're not belaying from the top.

This thing is great. Jan 19, 2015
Izzy Nawfal
Redondo Beach, CA
 
Izzy Nawfal   Redondo Beach, CA
 
A #6/5/4/3 (optional 8 for the start) will get you up comfortably with some bumping. Anything from .5-2 will work in the horizontal crack as an anchor. Easy walk off. Mar 19, 2018

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