All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Geology Tour Road > Virgin Islands… > Star Wars Rock
Between a Rock and a Hard Place [Suggest Change]
Avg: 3.8 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|FA:||Tony Yaniro, Toivo Kodas, and Vaino Kodas, 1981|
|Page Views:||5,379 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||Will S on Feb 18, 2007|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Description [Suggest Change]
This leaning, almost bombay squeeze chimney is great entertainment for climbers and spectators alike. If you go with the proper side in, the crux is a few feet below where it turns the lip onto the vertical face. Good squeeze technique will see you through the crux, then you're into the fists and soon onto the face where the crack is low angle & easy. If setting a TR on this, be prepared with a good length of static line, you'll want to extend the anchor quite a ways below the top due to a rope pinching chockstone in the crack.
Location [Suggest Change]
About 60' right and downhill of Light Sabre, on the next large boulder. The obvious right angling squeeze chimney in a dihedral.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Big and bigger.