Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Tony Yaniro, Toivo Kodas, and Vaino Kodas, 1981
Page Views: 6,711 total · 40/month
Shared By: Will S on Feb 18, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This leaning, almost bombay squeeze chimney is great entertainment for climbers and spectators alike. If you go with the proper side in, the crux is a few feet below where it turns the lip onto the vertical face. Good squeeze technique will see you through the crux, then you're into the fists and soon onto the face where the crack is low angle & easy. If setting a TR on this, be prepared with a good length of static line, you'll want to extend the anchor quite a ways below the top due to a rope pinching chockstone in the crack.

Location

About 60' right and downhill of Light Sabre, on the next large boulder. The obvious right angling squeeze chimney in a dihedral.

Protection

Big and bigger.

Photos