Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Tony Yaniro, Toivo Kodas, and Vaino Kodas, 1981
Page Views: 8,391 total · 40/month
Shared By: Will S on Feb 18, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This leaning, almost bombay squeeze chimney is great entertainment for climbers and spectators alike.

 If you go with the proper side in, the crux is a few feet below where it turns the lip onto the vertical face. Good squeeze technique will see you through the crux, then you're into the fists and soon onto the face where the crack is low angle & easy.

 If setting a TR on this, be prepared with a good length of static line, you'll want to extend the anchor quite a ways below the top due to a rope pinching chockstone in the crack.

Location Suggest change

About 60 feet right and downhill of Light Sabre, on the next large boulder. It's the obvious right angling squeeze chimney in a dihedral.

Protection Suggest change

Big and bigger.