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> Joshua Tree NP
> Queen Valley Area
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> Geology Tour Rd…
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> Star Wars Rock
Light Sabre
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 182
votes
Routes in Star Wars Rock
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Between a Rock and a Hard Place T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dragon Scales TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Lemming, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Light Sabre T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Through the Hole and Up The Wall T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Thumbs Down Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Walking on the Moon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 33.95018, -116.07135 |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas, Toivo Kodas and Tony Yaniro, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 7,800 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Nelson on Aug 12, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Light Sabre is one of the finest cracks for it's grade in Joshua Tree. It is long, sustained, continuous, and it will consume as much gear as you can throw at it.
On the south side of Star Wars Rock are several right-slanting cracks. Light Sabre is the rightmost, with a small right-facing corner for the first half, a bulge, then a straight-in crack for the top.
You can't walk by without being drawn in by its siren song. Expect a variety of jams, from locker fingers to off-hands, and a good solid pump.
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