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Routes in Lechlinski Crack Formation

Black Nipple Fetish T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crazy Xenoliths S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keith's 10,000 Girlfriends S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keith's Ripped Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lechlinski Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roberts Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S Crack, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waugh Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Waugh
Page Views: 869 total, 5/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Sep 30, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Waugh Crack is located on the north face of the Lechlinski Cracks formation and is identified by a thin finger crack. Crank through the thin finger crack with poor feet (crux) right off the deck and continue up to easier ground. Bring a couple of hand size pieces for anchor.

Descend by scrambling off climber's left.

Protection

Light rack up to a #1 size (red) Camalot, plus a couple of hand size pieces to build an anchor.

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keli
San Diego, CA
  5.10d
keli   San Diego, CA
  5.10d
great climb!

Definitely 10d

This sucker is stiff right off the deck! Its like 20 feet of non-stop moves.....awesome!
Nov 23, 2009
with the extension i here its a solid 5.15c.... what is the best time of day to check out this formation in the summer time? Sep 4, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
At least 5.15 Apr 7, 2003
This route is harder than any 10d in the area or any 11a crack that I've done this season. Apr 7, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10d
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10d
Not 5.10b in my opinion. Grades are built on consensus, and this seems to be heading towards 5.10d. Mar 30, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10d
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10d
probably the wrong place for a ratings debate but Chris Miller's 5.9, 5.10a, 5.11c analysis equates (roughly) to 5b, 5c, 6a in UK grades, coincedence? Mar 14, 2003
Murf  
My original comment was just this: Mike is burly. Mar 10, 2003
Josh Beck
  5.10d
Josh Beck  
  5.10d
Chris, I completely agree and I don't worry too much about what something's really rated, instead I think about how hard it is for me and how much enjoyment I get out of it. I really enjoy the constant challenge of new routes that push me, no matter what they're graded. However, many friends of mine and I are all working through the grades, trying to improve and get stronger. For the most part we're working on leading a lot of the classic 10+ to 11s at jtree (mostly cracks) and we trade stories, climbs, beta, etc around the campfire or dinner table all the time, so the debates constantly are coming up :) And with Randy asking for ratings comments I think it's worth discussing, sorry if I came off poorly.

As an aside, some friends and I have a new theory that there really is only one grade needed at Woodson: 5.11+ - Uncertainty Principle, Seminar Wall, Go With The Flow, The Cave, Alcoa, Stairway to Heaven, Walking on Air, Kurtains for Certain, Hear My Train Acomin', Driving South, California Night, Hard As Nails, Starving in Stereo, PhD, Mother Superior, The Ogre, Right Long's Crack - pretty much 90% of the classic climbs up there could be argued to be that grade :)

josh Mar 10, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
There was a period of time Mike and friends only rated climbs 5.9 regardless of their true difficulty, something that caused some fun on a certain route out at the Zebra Cliffs that is now rated 5.10d.

It's easy to get bogged down trying to pinpoint a rating sometimes as it depends upon your strength/weakness relative to a particular type of climbing, whether you're having a good or bad day as well as plenty of other variables.

Sometimes it's just easier to be vauge - after all I've heard it said there's only three ratings needed for most routes...5.9+, 5.10d and 5.11c...

Mar 9, 2003
Josh Beck
  5.10d
Josh Beck  
  5.10d
No one's arguing with Mike Waugh's background. To me this route is harder than either of the Mel Cracks (10c per Vogel, 10b IMHO), harder than Right V Crack (10a per guidebooks but 10c per most people I've talked to and IMHO) and at least as hard as Robert's Crack (10d) if not a bit harder. Mar 9, 2003
Josh Beck
  5.10d
Josh Beck  
  5.10d
This route is pretty burly and is strenuous to hang out and protect. Definitely felt harder than .10b to me. Jan 19, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I agree - the opening moves felt more like 10d! Oct 18, 2002
Murf  
The rating attests to Waugh burlyness! Oct 18, 2002