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Via dos Italianos
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 62
votes
Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
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Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Via dos Italianos S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 9 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | -22.9499, -43.1591 |
| FA: | 1975 |
| Page Views: | 12,332 total · 74/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby |
Description
This is the most famous route on the Pao de Acucar. It is on the west face of the formation and climbs up directly underneath the cable car. It is mostly easy but technical face and slab climbing in a beautiful setting. Second half of the first pitch can be tricky for someone not so used to face climbs.
There is a new finish on a beautiful bolted line aside the ferrata. See the Urca guide update "CEPI-em-Livre" on
companhiadaescalada.com.br/pt/...
Continue straight up from P3 of Via dos Italianos. For more details consult the excellent topos in the Urca Climbing Guide.
Location
Start on the paved trail leaving Praia Vermelha toward Pão de Açúcar. Take the marked trail on your left that goes to the top of Morro da Urca. When you reach the shoulder between Morro da Urca and Pão de Açúcar go right instead of left and head directly to the face of Pão de Açúcar. You'll pass under an electric tower along the way to the face.
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