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Tumwater Canyon

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** Bouldering in Tumwater Canyon  
Bear Cave Crag 
Castle Rock 
Clem's Holler Area 
Dental Dome 
Dildome  
February Buttress 
Hobo Gulch 
Lower Castle Rock 
Midnight Rock 
Noontime Rock 
Piton Tower 
Rattlesnake Rock 
West Tumwater Rock 

Tumwater Canyon  


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Location: 47.60098, -120.71325 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 119,938
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ScottH on Feb 3, 2006
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Sarah Top Roping the Stash

Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Noontime and Midnight Rock now open MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tumwater Canyon lies along HW2 on the approach to Leavenworth from Steven's Pass. The canyon is the northern companion to Icicle Creek. Similar in character and rock type (quartz diorite) to Icicle Creek, the biggest difference between the canyons is the presence of Highway 2, the major route connecting Leavenworth to western Washington, and a source of pesky road noise at some crags. There are fewer crags in Tumwater than Icicle, but some great ones-- Castle Rock and Midnight Rock offer longer trad climbing, while Clem's Holler and surrounding crags offer numerous sport climbs.

There is camping in the canyon at Tumwater Campground, and several campgrounds in Icicle Creek Canyon, a short drive away.

Getting There 

Drive west from Leavenworth on Highway 2. Mileages are typically reported from the intersection of Highway 2 and the intersection with Icicle Creek Road on the west side of town.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

166 Total Routes

['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',62],['2 Stars',49],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',4],['5.8',16],['5.9',19],['5.10',51],['5.11',17],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',26],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',8],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tumwater Canyon:
Beach Arete   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   ** Bouldering in Tumwater C... : The Beach
The Fin   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   ** Bouldering in Tumwater C... : The Beach
Royal Flush   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Swiftwater Boulders : Royal Flush
Dyno 101   V3 6A     Boulder   ** Bouldering in Tumwater C... : The Beach
Footless Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Swiftwater Boulders : Campus Traverse
Premium Coffee   V7 7A+     Boulder   Swiftwater Boulders : Premium Coffee
Midway   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad   Castle Rock
Saber   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 280'   Castle Rock
Canary   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Castle Rock
Catapult   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   Lower Castle Rock
Damnation Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Castle Rock
The Bone   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 300'   Lower Castle Rock
Gun Rack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches   Clem's Holler Area : Clem's Holler
Brass Balls   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   Lower Castle Rock
Satanic Verses   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Castle Rock
The Nose, of Jello Tower   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Castle Rock
Rock n' Rattle   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 75'   Rattlesnake Rock
ROTC   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad   Midnight Rock
Das Musak   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Castle Rock
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 70'   Castle Rock
Browse More Classics in Tumwater Canyon

Featured Route For Tumwater Canyon
Just past the thin crux section below the alcove on one of the best crack climbs in Washington.

ROTC 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Midnight Rock
This excellent, dead vertical, splitter crack ranges from fingers to thin hands to perfect hands. The climb starts from an enormous ledge halfway up the center part of midnight rock.Soft at the grade....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

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