The Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof) 5.13+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13+ [details] |
| FA: | first free ascent |
| Season: | any |
| Submitted By: | rob pizem on Apr 15, 2012 |
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At the upper crux of Frank Zappa Appreciation Soci...
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Description There are two cruxes after the initial 5.11- start. The first crux is an undercling right on tips to tips lieback. The second crux is an undercling campus out roof into ring locks to anchor.
Location It is in the middle of the Zappa Wall out the roof to the right of Fork It. The new trail takes you right to the climb.
Protection 1 bolt from original ascent and anchors, gear from 0.2-1 inch cams plus 1 draw. I used a number 1, 0.3, 0.5, and a draw on the send.
| Comments on The Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof) |
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By rob pizem
Apr 15, 2012
| Thanks to whomever aided this line years ago. Also, when passing the bolt at the first crux, be sure to have an excellent belay. A fall could break your ankles/legs on the slab/ledge below.
I still have a jammed blue TCU after the first crux. If you get it out, please let me know. I would love to get it back. I didn't have time to work at it on my last day.
Lastly, this was not my style of crack. If you are strong boulderer and know how to jam. I wouldn't doubt that you will find it easier than I did. That being said, I feel strongly that the route is mid- to upper-13 which is why the + rating. I am sure that other ascents will help adjust the rating over time. |
By slim
Apr 15, 2012
| Nice work, piz, figured you would probably get the FFA on this when you moved to the area. |
By rob pizem
Apr 16, 2012
| Thanks, slim, it has ruined my two pointer fingers, but I think it was worth freeing this pitch. It was way too fun to climb on! |
By slim
Apr 16, 2012
| Ah, pointer fingers, who needs em. Too big for the blue Alien cracks anyway. |
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