Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Make this area a Favorite 
What's New in this area
Best Routes for You in this area
Photos > Recent | Best | Popular

Show routes:
Select Area...
Buzzard's Roost 
Carnivore Boulders 
Echo Canyon 
Freshman Mountain 
Little Dome 
Main Dome 
Turkey Peak 


Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Sep 3, 2006
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB
Latitude: 30.5032  Longitude: -98.8213 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
Views: 39,800 page views

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Discussions available in the
Midwest
Message Forum
 Printer Friendly View

5.6


Description 

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area consists of over 1600 acres on the Big Sandy Creek north of Fredericksburg. The actual Rock is a large, pink granite dome that covers over 640 acres. The major dome is over 425' high. According to the Texas Parks Service, the dome itself is one of the largest batholithe's Pink Granite batholiths uncovered by erosion in the US. The main dome lies next to a second dome, both of which are surrounded by smaller formations. In the park, you will find tons of established bolted and traditional routes including aid routes that go up to A3. In addition, for those who love to hump pads, there is bouldering aplenty on the eratics surrounding the main domes.


Getting There 

17 miles outside of fredericksburg. Or 24 miles north of Llano on 87.


Fees and Camping 

The park is open year round except when public hunts take place (typically in the fall or winter, but check the calendar of events or call the park ahead to inquire). The entry fee is $6/person per day and is required in addition to any camping fees outlined below. Keep in mind that this park IS VERY POPULAR and that it does frequently reach maximum capacity in terms of parking and available space. So, if you want to get in, plan on getting there early, especially on weekends.

Excellent walk-in sites are available. These sites have tent pads, fire rings, and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers and water are within easy reach of each of the camping areas. Fees for the walk in sites are $15/night (as of April 2008; check TPWD's fee site for most current fees) with a maximum of 8 campers allowed at a single site. There are 46 sites available, all of which fill up fast, so reserve a site well in advance if you are planning on staying overnight at the park.

In addition, primitive sites (requiring a 1 to 3 mile hike) are available. These sites are $10/night for a maximum of four people per site. There are a 20 spaces located in each of the three available primitive areas. The primitive sites have access to outdoor toilets. Pets are allowed in the primitive areas. No water is available in these areas and fires not permitted.


Guides and Resources 

The original guide by Robert Price, Scott Harris and James Crump, The Dome Driver's Manual is long out of print although it is still possible to find used copies. However, Sean Grady recently published a updated guide to E-Rock called Enchanted Rock: A Climber's Guide which contains over 300 routes and 150 boulder problems. In addition, you can find topos of routes at E-Rock at ERockOnlinedotcom as well as an overview of the climbing areas and information concerning recreation and camping on the TPWD site.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Enchanted Rock State Natural Area:
Texas Flakes   5.4     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : Smorgasbord Wall
Jack Knife   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Chunky Tuna   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : Center Wall
Smorgasbord   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : Smorgasbord Wall
Cave Crack   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Harder Than it Looks   5.6     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Dome : Devil's Slide
Sweat   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : News Wall
Middle Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Mark of the Beast   5.8+     Sport, 3 pitches   Main Dome : Devil's Slide
Owl Crack   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Pro Sweat   5.9     Sport   Main Dome : News Wall
Ripple   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall
Texas Crude   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Fear of Flying   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Browse More Classics in Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Featured Route For Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Below the crux on Middle Crack.

Middle Crack 5.8  TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
As the name implies, Middle Crack is the centerpiece of the Triple Cracks and is located between Owl and Becky's Cracks. Middle Crack is an excellent climb, and a must do for any E-Rock visitor. The start is more of a flake with good lieback moves than a crack. The crux comes early - about 10-15 feet up, the crack curves up and left, leaving a small 'bulge' on the right (protects well with a #2 Camalot). There is a second, smaller 'bulg...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX


Comments on Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Marr
From: Lakewood, Washington
Sep 15, 2006

For a quick overview of the climbing at E-Rock, download a map produced by the TPWD on their web site (www.tpwd.state.tx.us):

E-Rock Climbing Overview

It's not very detailed, but it will get you to the general area. There is also a "select" list of climbs throughout the park on the 2nd page.

The TPWD website contains a lot of additional information on the park such as camping and hiking trails.

E-Rock Park Map

By theleroy
Mar 30, 2007

Can anyone give me a heads up to the weather at Enchanted in November?

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2007

A better resource is http://www.erockonline.com

By Shawn Gibson
From: San Antonio, Texas
Feb 24, 2008

Those are bad directions from Llano. Take HWY 16 SOUTH from Llano, to ranch road 965.

You would take HWY 87 North from Frdricksburg to rr 965.

By J C Wylks
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 3, 2008

I think there was an earlier guide book called 'Stranger than Friction' by Rick Watson? Good luck finding that one!

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Left Hand Canyon, CO
Jan 1, 2009

Nope, "Stranger than Friction" is all James Crump and Dale Bergeron. Though Rick Watson is a Wikipedia of info and fun at Erock.

By J C Wylks
From: Loveland, CO
May 12, 2009

And Bergeron that's the name I was trying to remember. Yeah don't forget that guy. A while back, I missed buying it on MP by minutes.

Stranger Than Friction: A Climbers Guide to Enchanted Rock, 1984, Dale Bergeron/James Crump.

If anyone needs a lesson Rick's with www.rock-about.com. I'd recommend them.