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DescriptionEnchanted Rock State Natural Area consists of over 1600 acres on the Big Sandy Creek north of Fredericksburg. The actual Rock is a large, pink granite dome that covers over 640 acres. The major dome is over 425' high. According to the Texas Parks Service, the dome itself is one of the largest batholithe's Pink Granite batholiths uncovered by erosion in the US. The main dome lies next to a second dome, both of which are surrounded by smaller formations. In the park, you will find tons of established bolted and traditional routes including aid routes that go up to A3. In addition, for those who love to hump pads, there is bouldering aplenty on the eratics surrounding the main domes. Getting There17 miles outside of fredericksburg. Or 24 miles north of Llano on 87. Fees and CampingThe park is open year round except when public hunts take place (typically in the fall or winter, but check the calendar of events or call the park ahead to inquire). The entry fee is $6/person per day and is required in addition to any camping fees outlined below. Keep in mind that this park IS VERY POPULAR and that it does frequently reach maximum capacity in terms of parking and available space. So, if you want to get in, plan on getting there early, especially on weekends. Guides and ResourcesThe original guide by Robert Price, Scott Harris and James Crump, The Dome Driver's Manual is long out of print although it is still possible to find used copies. However, Sean Grady recently published a updated guide to E-Rock called Enchanted Rock: A Climber's Guide which contains over 300 routes and 150 boulder problems. In addition, you can find topos of routes at E-Rock at ERockOnlinedotcom as well as an overview of the climbing areas and information concerning recreation and camping on the TPWD site. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Enchanted Rock State Natural Area:
Texas Flakes 5.4 Trad, 1 pitch Main Dome : Smorgasbord Wall
Jack Knife 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Chunky Tuna 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch Main Dome : Center Wall
Smorgasbord 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch Main Dome : Smorgasbord Wall
Cave Crack 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Harder Than it Looks 5.6 Sport, 1 pitch Main Dome : Devil's Slide
Middle Crack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Mark of the Beast 5.8+ Sport, 3 pitches Main Dome : Devil's Slide
Owl Crack 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Ripple 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall
Texas Crude 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Fear of Flying 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Featured Route For Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Middle Crack 5.8 TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
As the name implies, Middle Crack is the centerpiece of the Triple Cracks and is located between Owl and Becky's Cracks. Middle Crack is an excellent climb, and a must do for any E-Rock visitor. The start is more of a flake with good lieback moves than a crack. The crux comes early - about 10-15 feet up, the crack curves up and left, leaving a small 'bulge' on the right (protects well with a #2 Camalot). There is a second, smaller 'bulg...[more] Browse More Classics in TX
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