Enchanted Rock State Natural Area consists of over 1600 acres on the Big Sandy Creek north of Fredericksburg. The actual Rock is a large, pink granite dome that covers over 640 acres. The major dome is over 425' high. According to the Texas Parks Service, the dome itself is one of the largest batholithe's Pink Granite batholiths uncovered by erosion in the US. The main dome lies next to a second dome, both of which are surrounded by smaller formations. In the park, you will find tons of established bolted and traditional routes including aid routes that go up to A3. In addition, for those who love to hump pads, there is bouldering aplenty on the eratics surrounding the main domes.
Getting There
17 miles outside of fredericksburg. Or 24 miles north of Llano on 87.
Fees and Camping
The park is open year round except when public hunts take place (typically in the fall or winter, but check the calendar of events or call the park ahead to inquire). The entry fee is $6/person per day and is required in addition to any camping fees outlined below. Keep in mind that this park IS VERY POPULAR and that it does frequently reach maximum capacity in terms of parking and available space. So, if you want to get in, plan on getting there early, especially on weekends.
Excellent walk-in sites are available. These sites have tent pads, fire rings, and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers and water are within easy reach of each of the camping areas. Fees for the walk in sites are $15/night (as of April 2008; check TPWD's fee site for most current fees) with a maximum of 8 campers allowed at a single site. There are 46 sites available, all of which fill up fast, so reserve a site well in advance if you are planning on staying overnight at the park.
In addition, primitive sites (requiring a 1 to 3 mile hike) are available. These sites are $10/night for a maximum of four people per site. There are a 20 spaces located in each of the three available primitive areas. The primitive sites have access to outdoor toilets. Pets are allowed in the primitive areas. No water is available in these areas and fires not permitted.
Guides and Resources
The original guide by Robert Price, Scott Harris and James Crump, The Dome Driver's Manual is long out of print although it is still possible to find used copies. However, Sean Grady recently published a updated guide to E-Rock called Enchanted Rock: A Climber's Guide which contains over 300 routes and 150 boulder problems. In addition, you can find topos of routes at E-Rock at ERockOnlinedotcom as well as an overview of the climbing areas and information concerning recreation and camping on the TPWD site.
Featured Route For Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Some slabby face moves lead to a powerful undercling, then a BIG reach or deadpoint to the base of a beautiful, but short, arching fingercrack layback flake. This route got an X in the original guidebook, although the crux is pretty protectable. The techy smears in the upper half make it a pretty heady lead, though....[more]
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By Steve Marr From: North Pole/Fairbanks, AK Sep 15, 2006
For a quick overview of the climbing at E-Rock, download a map produced by the TPWD on their web site (www.tpwd.state.tx.us):