Straight On Til Morning
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Entering the crux on Straight on til Morning.
This awesome route shares the same starts with Grendel and Tinkerbell's Nightmare. Start at the second line of bolts from the uphill side of the tower (where the loose under-cling is). Climb to the ledge and continue straight upwards, and branch left where the route meets with Tinkerbell's nightmare.
There is a sequency crux 3/4 of the way up, hang on til you clip the anchors!
Shares the first bolts with Technowitch then heads straight up. Second climb from the left.
Lots o' bolts to sport anchors.
Linda working her way through the crux of Straight...
Mar 27, 2006
Maybe not the best 12 on The Tower but I think it is the best route of the three 12's on the left side of that face. It's a little harder than Technowitch and Tinkerbell's Nightmare but has more vertical feet of good climbing than the other two so you get more bang for your effort.
FYI the FA was done by Adam Read.
Jul 16, 2010
A 30 foot route pretending to be a 60 foot route. But the 30 feet are very very good and so get 3 stars from me.
By Pat Mac
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
This is the harder one on this wall. Cruxy at top.