PRINT: Rock Climb Straight On Til Morning, Enchanted Tower

Straight On Til Morning

5.12b/c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 33 votes
FA: Adam Read
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Enchanted Tower > N (Left) Face

Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.

Description

This awesome route shares the same starts with Grendel and Tinkerbell's Nightmare. Start at the second line of bolts from the uphill side of the tower (where the loose under-cling is). Climb to the ledge and continue straight upwards, and branch left where the route meets with Tinkerbell's nightmare.

There is a sequency crux 3/4 of the way up, hang on til you clip the anchors!

Location

Shares the first bolts with Technowitch then heads straight up. Second climb from the left.

Protection

Lots o' bolts to sport anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Linda working her way through the crux of Straight On

Entering the crux on Straight on til Morning.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

WSnyder

Maybe not the best 12 on The Tower but I think it is the best route of the three 12's on the left side of that face. It's a little harder than Technowitch and Tinkerbell's Nightmare but has more vertical feet of good climbing than the other two so you get more bang for your effort.

FYI the FA was done by Adam Read. Mar 27, 2006

jbak x
tucson, az

A 30 foot route pretending to be a 60 foot route. But the 30 feet are very very good and so get 3 stars from me. Jul 16, 2010

Pat Mac
Bishop, CA

5.12b/c

This is the harder one on this wall. Cruxy at top. May 7, 2012

Badana Banantula
Albuquerque, NM

Caution: The anchor is currently in bad shape. The left bolt has a quick link that is jammed unscrewed and levers on the rock. If you load it the wrong way it flexes open. The biner gate sticks open too. Also, the cold shut on the right bolt is loose. I didn't have parts to fix the anchor last weekend, but I will do so soon and post an update when it's fixed. Sep 21, 2021

Frank Stein
Albuquerque, NM

5.12c

Lost a key jug at the last bolt, creating a second crux. It is noticeably harder now. Jan 17, 2024